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Routes in First Buttress

Haulage, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Leather Nun S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Magnatude S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Oh it's you Bob S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sanctified S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tantrum, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tarbaby S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
World's Hardest Five Twelve, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Porter Jarrard (1991)
Page Views: 760 total · 13/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Jul 8, 2013
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

The Haulage, or “World’s Hardest Variation” as some call it, shares the first four bolts with the World’s Hardest 5.12. The four bolt opening section has fun climbing between slopers and jugs. The 5.12 section hits you right after the two routes diverge. Follow the left bolt line through a steep section of rock. Move up the 20 degree overhanging wall with a series of dead points and hard lock offs between slopers and edges. The crux sequence is 10 moves long and allows no margin for hesitation. The moves are hard, but very straight forward.

If you like soft falls you should leave the first bolt unclipped and place long draws or slings on bolts three and four. Short draws get the rope wedged in a crack and results in a not so fun abrupt catch. The route gets shade around 2:00 p.m.

Location [Suggest Change]

Left most route on the First Buttress.

Protection [Suggest Change]

7 bolts + 2 bolt anchor

Photos

Joe Virtanen
Asheville, NC
  5.12c
Joe Virtanen   Asheville, NC
  5.12c
Amazing route. The headwall movement is pure fun. Sep 5, 2016

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