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Routes in 2. First Buttress
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Haulage, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Leather Nun, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Magnatude S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Oh, It's You Bob S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rubber Glove Test, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sanctified S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sticky Situation S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tantrum, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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World's Hardest Five Twelve, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 38.04588, -81.06645 |
| FA: | Equipper and FA with A0 start: Porter Jarrard 1991. FFA Mike Williams 2006 |
| Page Views: | 1,545 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | JustSmitty on Apr 5, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS.
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
This climb begins right off the ground with some in your face climbing. The first 3 bolts could be described as a long v8 with hard pulls on tiny holds. When you reach the third bolt, rest up and try to keep your composure for maybe the hardest move on the route. Make this move and finish the route with 12a/b climbing to the chains. The top has one more heartbreaker section that you may want to have dialed before you are on the redpoint. Originally climbed by Porter Jarrard by aiding up to the first bolt (13a) and later sent from the ground by Mike Williams (13c).
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