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Routes in First Buttress

Haulage, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Leather Nun S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Magnatude S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Oh it's you Bob S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sanctified S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tantrum, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tarbaby S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
World's Hardest Five Twelve, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Porter Jarrard
Page Views: 999 total, 15/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Jun 12, 2012
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Stick clip the first bolt and then climb out a roof on good jugs to some minor difficulties turning the lip. Rest up on some jugs and then make some easy moves up to the fifth bolt. Clip the fifth bolt from some perfectly sculpted hand sized jugs and then move into the business.

The crux boulder problem features some unforgiving crimps on very steep terrain. There is no way to weasel your way around this crux. Bring finger strength and a boulderer's mentality if you hope to have any success on this 3-4 move boulder problem. The obvious sequence sets you up for brutal shoulder wrenching, iron cross beta, but alternative beta spares you of the shouldery move. The boulder problem is hard V5 if not V6.

At the sixth bolt, transitioning from the steep angle to a blunt arete is a bit sequential. Once established on the arete the climbing eases to 5.11 with numerous resting spots.

Long slings on the third and fourth bolt make the excursion more enjoyable (from a rope drag stand point). Best to try this route in the afternoon shade as the crimps can be a bit tempermental.

Location

Smack dab in the center of the first buttress. Finishes on the blunt arete.

Protection

10 bolts + anchor

Photos

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