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Routes in Dozier Dome

Angelic Upstart T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Bit by Bit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bull Dozier T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheeseburgers and Beer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cheetos and Everclear S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dozier Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dumpster Evangelist T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Errett By Bit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Errett Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Felsic S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holdless Horror T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Isostacy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Loud and Obnoxious S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Plutonics S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Read Between the Lines TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripple T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Scandalous Summer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tourette's T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ursula T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
White Lie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
You, Me, and the Dike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: Dave and Jen Lane, 2007
Page Views: 112 total, 2/month
Shared By: Johnny Y on Jun 24, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

The route traverses along the obvious dike that cuts across Bull Dozier and Side Dish. Climb up easy ledges or slab to a horizontal crack (~2"), then simply follow the dike all the way to the anchor. I found the crux to be somewhere between first and second bolt, just before getting to the Bull Dozier crack. I ended up doing a hand tranverse there but SuperTopo suggested the original crux can be avoided by keeping your feet on the dike. Both leader and follower should be confident at the grade as falling would result in long pendulum swings.

Location

Share the same start as Avocado and Tequilla, just to the left of Ripple, dike is very obvious. Rappel with two 60m ropes at the anchor.

Protection

1 each 0.75 to 1.5"
8 quickdraws

SuperTopo showed 3 bolts between the anchor and the 2nd crack that this route cuts across, but I was only able to find 1. Placing a 1 or 1.25" pro in the crack will give adequate protection before launching onto the golden slab.

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Super fun and heady route with interesting, balance-y slab moves. The runouts are real with the pendulum factor. We got off the wall as it started raining hard and 10 minutes later the whole dome turned into one giant waterfall.

Supertopo shows three bolts between the second crack and the anchor, but we found two (not one as the route description says). The anchor is two bolts connected with a single chain off the top bolt and a rap ring, NOT to be confused with another anchor about 15-20 feet to the left. There are only three gear placements along the route - one at the start and two that the route traverses across that takes hand-fist sized pieces. Aug 7, 2017