Type: Trad, 170 ft (52 m)
FA: Dave and Jen Lane, 2007
Page Views: 598 total · 6/month
Shared By: Johnny Y on Jun 24, 2013
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures. Details

Description

The route traverses along the obvious dike that cuts across Bull Dozier and Side Dish. Climb up easy ledges or slab to a horizontal crack (~2"), then simply follow the dike all the way to the anchor. I found the crux to be somewhere between first and second bolt, just before getting to the Bull Dozier crack. I ended up doing a hand tranverse there but SuperTopo suggested the original crux can be avoided by keeping your feet on the dike. Both leader and follower should be confident at the grade as falling would result in long pendulum swings.

Location

Share the same start as Avocado and Tequilla, just to the left of Ripple, dike is very obvious. Rappel with two 60m ropes at the anchor.

Protection

1 each 0.75 to 1.5"
8 quickdraws

SuperTopo showed 3 bolts between the anchor and the 2nd crack that this route cuts across, but I was only able to find 1. Placing a 1 or 1.25" pro in the crack will give adequate protection before launching onto the golden slab.

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