Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: Dave and Jen Lane, 2007
Page Views: 175 total · 3/month
Shared By: Johnny Y on Jun 24, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

The route traverses along the obvious dike that cuts across Bull Dozier and Side Dish. Climb up easy ledges or slab to a horizontal crack (~2"), then simply follow the dike all the way to the anchor. I found the crux to be somewhere between first and second bolt, just before getting to the Bull Dozier crack. I ended up doing a hand tranverse there but SuperTopo suggested the original crux can be avoided by keeping your feet on the dike. Both leader and follower should be confident at the grade as falling would result in long pendulum swings.

Location

Share the same start as Avocado and Tequilla, just to the left of Ripple, dike is very obvious. Rappel with two 60m ropes at the anchor.

Protection

1 each 0.75 to 1.5"
8 quickdraws

SuperTopo showed 3 bolts between the anchor and the 2nd crack that this route cuts across, but I was only able to find 1. Placing a 1 or 1.25" pro in the crack will give adequate protection before launching onto the golden slab.

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sabina
oakland, ca
 
sabina   oakland, ca
 
Super fun and heady route with interesting, balance-y slab moves. The runouts are real with the pendulum factor. We got off the wall as it started raining hard and 10 minutes later the whole dome turned into one giant waterfall.

Supertopo shows three bolts between the second crack and the anchor, but we found two (not one as the route description says). The anchor is two bolts connected with a single chain off the top bolt and a rap ring, NOT to be confused with another anchor about 15-20 feet to the left. There are only three gear placements along the route - one at the start and two that the route traverses across that takes hand-fist sized pieces. Aug 7, 2017