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Routes in Dozier Dome

Angelic Upstart T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Avocados and Tequila T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bit by Bit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bull Dozier T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheeseburgers and Beer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cheetos and Everclear S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dozier Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dumpster Evangelist T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Errett By Bit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Errett Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Felsic S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holdless Horror T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Isostacy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Loud and Obnoxious S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Plutonics S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Read Between the Lines TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripple T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Scandalous Summer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tourette's T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ursula T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
White Lie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
You, Me, and the Dike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Vern Clevenger, June 1977
Page Views: 1,203 total, 12/month
Shared By: john durr on Jul 25, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

You will have plenty of time to think about the differences between PG and R on this excellent classic three pitch face route with lots of variety.

Pitch 1 runout up the very easy smooth apron to a right leaning, right facing thin dihedral with pretty good gear until it ends at a steep face with a horizontal crack. Great cams can be found in this horizontal 3 feet either right or left to replace the missing pin, but you will have to work for it. Make the wild crux mantle to clip a welcome bolt. Golden edges and a mantle past 2 more bolts then make a wild thin traverse left to another horizontal and a bolted belay. 5.10c PG 50 meters.

Pitch 2 easy traverse 10 feet right to a thin 5.9 dihedral with good gear to horizontals. Move left past a loose flake. Further left and up past 2 bolts with great knobs 5.9+ to a 0.75" cam under a flake, wild face climbing to the right up the flake to a bolted belay 5.10-. 30 meters.

Pitch 3 starts left then goes right on unbelievable thin face and knobs past 7 bolts. Most of the time will be spent making 5.10 moves with a bolt below your feet. Finish up and right to a thin dihedral. Gear belay here. 5.10b PG 50 meters.

Scramble 4th class to the top about 20 meters.

Location

This route is on the steep Northwest face of Dozier Dome, about 200 meters right (west) of Errett Out and Holdless Horror. Look for a smooth golden slab leading to the right leaning, right facing dihedral on the low slab.

To descend, walk down from the top west cross the stream that drains Cathedral Lakes and then down easy slabs class 2. Hike back to your pack. This should take about 15 minutes total.

Protection

Bring a light rack with a good selection of gear from thin nuts, TCU's to 2-1/2" cams. I found an extra 0.5" to 2" cams particularly useful on the first pitch that has a bolted belay. Pitch 2 has 2 bolts with plenty of supplemental gear, bolted belay. Pitch 3 has 7 bolts and ends at a gear belay 0.5"-1.0" cams.

Rebolted by ASCA 2002 so all the bolts are new and shinny. Long slings and double ropes help on this wandering route.

Photos

Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
  5.10c PG13
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
  5.10c PG13
Great climb. Pitch 1 is definitely the technical crux, but pitch 3 is the true test of your face climbing chops. Nov 4, 2015
Short Fall Sean
Flagstaff, AZ
Short Fall Sean   Flagstaff, AZ
Just did the first pitch. The mantle felt like solid 5.10 (maybe 10c-ish) above questionable gear with a likely nasty fall onto the slab if you blow it. Definitely a stout little section. With a single rope you can rap off the bolts at the top of p1 (They're the kind with the rounded edge so you can rap straight off the hangers) down to a point on the slab where you can walk down. Jul 12, 2013
Phil Esra  
 
More scary than dangerous, but definitely PG13++. A little gritty here and there as of summer 2013. A single rack up to #2 should be plenty, with maybe 1-2 extra finger-sized cams--I brought a full double rack and felt silly--it's mostly bolts (or nothing).

At the p1 roof, look for gear on your left, not right, to reduce rope drag--I placed a cam on the right, and even with a 1.5 length sling on it I still had awful rope drag above.

I didn't find anything on p3 to be harder than the p1 roof.

Description above is very accurate--you can figure out the line from the ground, but can't really see the final little dihedral. Don't worry, it's up there. Jul 8, 2013