Type: Trad, 500 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Vern Clevenger, June 1977
Page Views: 1,739 total · 13/month
Shared By: john durr on Jul 25, 2009
Admins: M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

You will have plenty of time to think about the differences between PG and R on this excellent classic three pitch face route with lots of variety.

Pitch 1 runout up the very easy smooth apron to a right leaning, right facing thin dihedral with pretty good gear until it ends at a steep face with a horizontal crack. Great cams can be found in this horizontal 3 feet either right or left to replace the missing pin, but you will have to work for it. Make the wild crux mantle to clip a welcome bolt. Golden edges and a mantle past 2 more bolts then make a wild thin traverse left to another horizontal and a bolted belay. 5.10c PG 50 meters.

Pitch 2 easy traverse 10 feet right to a thin 5.9 dihedral with good gear to horizontals. Move left past a loose flake. Further left and up past 2 bolts with great knobs 5.9+ to a 0.75" cam under a flake, wild face climbing to the right up the flake to a bolted belay 5.10-. 30 meters.

Pitch 3 starts left then goes right on unbelievable thin face and knobs past 7 bolts. Most of the time will be spent making 5.10 moves with a bolt below your feet. Finish up and right to a thin dihedral. Gear belay here. 5.10b PG 50 meters.

Scramble 4th class to the top about 20 meters.

Location

This route is on the steep Northwest face of Dozier Dome, about 200 meters right (west) of Errett Out and Holdless Horror. Look for a smooth golden slab leading to the right leaning, right facing dihedral on the low slab.

To descend, walk down from the top west cross the stream that drains Cathedral Lakes and then down easy slabs class 2. Hike back to your pack. This should take about 15 minutes total.

Protection

Bring a light rack with a good selection of gear from thin nuts, TCU's to 2-1/2" cams. I found an extra 0.5" to 2" cams particularly useful on the first pitch that has a bolted belay. Pitch 2 has 2 bolts with plenty of supplemental gear, bolted belay. Pitch 3 has 7 bolts and ends at a gear belay 0.5"-1.0" cams.

Rebolted by ASCA 2002 so all the bolts are new and shinny. Long slings and double ropes help on this wandering route.

Photos