Avg: 2.9 from 61 votes
|Type:||Trad, 470 ft (142 m), 4 pitches|
|FA:||Bryan Law, George Ridgley, Linda Jarit|
|Page Views:||3,405 total · 20/month|
|Shared By:||J. Albers on Sep 28, 2009 · Updates|
|Admins:||Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Beautiful rock with a great mix of face and crack climbing. Second pitch requires some careful route finding for the easiest path. There is a bit of PG-13/R-rated 5.6-5.7 climbing, but the gear is there and the stances to place it from are comfortable. Thus, while care should be taken when leading this, it is certainly not R-rated in the same category as, say, the Dike Route over on Pywiak.
Pitch one: 50 feet of 4th class to a ledge. Gear anchor.
Pitch two: (5.8 PG-13) Climb a right trending ramp to an obvious downward pointing roof/flake, get gear, then pull onto the flake and face climb up and left to another right facing flake which takes gear. Climb up and left to another, smaller right facing flake that takes a small cam and then go a ways up and left to a subtle right trending ramp in the area with the brightest white rock (a bit of small gear here). Follow the right trending ramp up and back right to the first bolt. Climb up past three more bolts to a double bolt anchor with chains.
The crux is well protected with bolts, but you do need to climb some 5.7R/PG-13 between gear placements before the bolts. Excellent climbing. 160-170 feet.
Pitch three: (5.6) Face climb up and right for 40 feet, aiming for a hand crack. You can get some gear before the crack, but you need to use runners. This part is a bit run out, but very easy climbing, maybe 5.4. Follow the pretty 5.6 hand crack to a two bolt anchor with chains. Full 200 feet.
Pitch four: (5.8) Climb straight up from the belay over bulges past 3 bolts to a two bolt anchor with chains. 60 feet.
Rappel the route with 2 60m ropes or continue up exposed 3rd and 4th class to the top of the dome (some may want a belay for the first portion of this). If you rappel, you must down climb the initial 4th class pitch, because the rappel from the top of the 2nd pitch to the ground is 230 feet.