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Routes in Dozier Dome

Angelic Upstart T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Avocados and Tequila T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bit by Bit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bull Dozier T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheeseburgers and Beer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cheetos and Everclear S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dozier Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dumpster Evangelist T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Errett By Bit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Errett Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Felsic S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holdless Horror T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Isostacy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Loud and Obnoxious S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Plutonics S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Read Between the Lines TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripple T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Scandalous Summer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tourette's T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ursula T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
White Lie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
You, Me, and the Dike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 190 ft
FA: John Shewchuk, Grant Hiskes & Bill Serniuk (Blitzo), 2004.
Page Views: 2,812 total, 21/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 8, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

A fun, easy climb at the far left of the wall.

Climb low angle knobs past bolts to a ledge with trees.

Crux is after the last bolt.

Rappel.

Location

Left of Corporal Klinger.

Protection

Draws.

Photos

- No Photos -
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
 
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
 
Really fun climb. Despite a good number of bolts, it should be considered trad bolted (although generous by Tuolumne standards), not a sport climb. If the top is wet, which it is early season, you can climb up and right from the last bolt, though it's a little stiffer than 5.7. Some will feel better by bringing a gold camalot to place above the last bolt. Finally, given the traffic from the three routes leading to Blitzo's Terrace, some thought should be given to installing a bolted rap anchor to give the poor tree a break. It's holding up fine now, but the continued use will take its toll. As of this past weekend, the raps slings were pretty stiff and crunchy, so I sacrificed a couple of newer slings and a biner to back it up. Jun 27, 2016
Eric A Beck
  5.7
Eric A Beck  
  5.7
We did this last summer. Bring 1" and 1.5" cams for two horizontal cracks toward the top of the route. Mar 18, 2016
Nicole BI
Oakland, CA
Nicole BI   Oakland, CA
Thanks for the clarification, J. It would make it easier to search the site for climbs that entail placing gear versus those which require only draws if these were classified as "sport" but I certainly understand the point behind classifying Tuolumne runouts as trad climbs, and appreciate your explanation. I deleted my other similar comments :) Sep 30, 2013
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
Hi Nicole,

I noticed that you have posted several comments regarding changing route definitions from trad to sport, so here is the reason why these routes are listed as trad. In general most folks define a route to be sport if it is all bolted and the bolts are closely spaced. There are many, many all bolted climbs in Tuolumne that certainly do not meet this criteria (i.e. they are way runout). Thus if a route is all bolted, but is runout at all, most people denote it as a trad route to signify to interested parties that they should not expect sport bolt spacing. Its not a perfect way of defining a route, but it is pretty widespread amongst the community.

I hope that helps.
Cheers. Aug 14, 2013
Nicole BI
Oakland, CA
Nicole BI   Oakland, CA
please reclassify this as sport rather than trad, thanks Aug 14, 2013
Bruce Hildenbrand  
  5.7
There are seven bolts on this climb, not five. And,for some reason they FA party didn't use the washer which comes with Rawl "5-piece" bolts to help distribute the load between the bolt head and the hanger. Lastly, I believe the 3rd(or was it the 4th) bolt has the metal sleeve partly protruding and smashed flat to the rock. Not a very good bolting job, IMHO. Sep 9, 2012
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
  5.7
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
  5.7
Good warmup. Crux after last bolt. Jul 5, 2012