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Routes in Dozier Dome

Angelic Upstart T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Avocados and Tequila T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bit by Bit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bull Dozier T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheeseburgers and Beer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cheetos and Everclear S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dozier Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dumpster Evangelist T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Errett By Bit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Errett Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Felsic S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holdless Horror T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Isostacy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Loud and Obnoxious S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Plutonics S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Read Between the Lines TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripple T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Scandalous Summer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tourette's T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ursula T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
White Lie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
You, Me, and the Dike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,425 total, 44/month
Shared By: Karl K on Aug 7, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Right leaning crack starts off ledge about 30' up
Climb 5.6 friction (no pro) straight up to slightly right-leaning crack [or it looks like a corner system just to the left is protectable - then traverse right].
First pitch - good pro & moves to sloping ledge - 195' 5.7
2nd & 3rd pitches As per J. Albers (from comments)
The first pitch belay is actually in a scoop about 30 feet below the bolts you mentioned, though using the bolts is fine as long as nobody is using them for the face climb they are there for.
The second pitch continues up the crack past a bulge (bring a 4 inch piece for the bulge) and up the nice hand crack to a another scoop to belay...maybe 120-130 feet from the bolts.
Third pitch continues until the crack ends and you are on 4th class, belay where you can. You can then climb out on 4th class from this belay, though many will want a belay for the last bit of 4th class to the top of the dome (it is exposed). Enjoyable climb.
Cheers.

Location

About 50' right of Holdless Horror (not the crack 20' right - thats "Side Out 5.8R)

Protection

Standard trad rack
Mostly finger to hand sizes

Photos

Tatiana Cottam
Oakland, CA
  5.7
Tatiana Cottam   Oakland, CA
  5.7
Goes in 2 pitches with a 70. Climb about 40-50 feet further than indicated on the topo (ie 40-50 feet past crux move on pitch 1). Sep 4, 2017
tom donnelly
san diego
tom donnelly   san diego
You can rappel Ripple, which is the route just right, if no one is on it. Two raps, each with 2 ropes. The upper rap anchor is hard to see from Bull Dozier. We found it by climbing 40-50 feet up the green crack on the third pitch, then traverse right to a ledge with the chains at head height. Oct 20, 2016
Jaclyn Harr
  5.7
Jaclyn Harr  
  5.7
As a relatively new trad leader, I didn't feel comfortable doing the wide bulge on the second pitch without much protection (hadn't brought a 3 or 4 cam). Ended up going to the right on an undercling, up a dirty crack, and then doing a few face moves to the left (5.7ish) to get back on the main crack. Good option if you don't have big pieces with you, or are like me and feel more comfortable on face than wide cracks. Plenty of options to protect for both the leader and the follower with that variation. Bring super long slings to reduce rope drag, though!

Otherwise, a great climb - first pitch is a nicely sustained hand crack that eats up nuts, second pitch is a bit more varied. If you have a 70 meter rope you can stretch it out a bit, and be pretty much on exposed 4th class for all of the third pitch. Aug 21, 2015
Colin Brochard
San Francisco
  5.7
Colin Brochard   San Francisco
  5.7
Sets up for a neat sunset solo if you are into that kind of thing. Exciting, wideish bulge up high. Mostly secure jams and locks and good feet. Enjoyed the beautiful walkoff past some cool pools with views of Tenaya lake to the west. Jul 13, 2015
Robert Shortt
San Francisco, California
  5.7
Robert Shortt   San Francisco, California
  5.7
Great route, and better than Holdless Horror IMO with only a slightly harder grade. Be careful of the knobs inside cracks...nuts might be wedged by these but not touching enough sides of rock to be completely secure. Sep 16, 2014
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.6
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.6
One of the BEST easy (definitely not 5.7 by Yosemite standards) routes in Tuolumne. IMHO better than Holdless Horror. Awesome crack in the finger and thin hand (mostly) range. Jul 22, 2014
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.7
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.7
Two very good long 5.7 (UK 4b) pitches - never hard, lots of gear but quite sustained. Recommended to visitors as a good, non-scary introduction to Tuolumne climbing. To avoid rope drag probably best to belay using gear in the crack on the big ledge (level with the bolts that are 20' right of the corner). Sep 12, 2012
Rob Selter
running springs Ca
 
Rob Selter   running springs Ca
 
better than holdless but not as long. Jun 20, 2012
The water level and flow is quite likely up further than when we did it.

Also to clarify, we didn't walk down the steep/scary portions (especially the slab waterfall right before one cuts right to return to the base of the climbs). One should obviously use common sense (and avoid the really steep parts). We considered most of the water perfectly safe to walkoff through but YMMV. Jul 31, 2011
powderfinger
san mateo
 
powderfinger   san mateo
 
Did the walk off yesterday and would NOT suggest walking down the actual waterfall. The water may only be a few inches deep at points but it sure is swift. A slip and a tumble and say goodbye. Instead, when you walk off the slabs from the dome to the water walk upstream, cross over on a few rocks and continue across and down the slabs on the other side. These slabs end in the trees where there is a trail. Follow the trail down the side of the waterfall. There are some great safe pools of water on this side if you want to go for a dip. When you reach the bottom of the falls cross the creek (or go for another swim) and it puts you about even with the base of the dome. Walk off with swimming+climb=nice day. Jul 25, 2011
First two pitches are fantastic for a 5.7 leader. Just lovely and very secure climbing.

In early season, go all the way left to the waterfall for the walkoff and you can take off your shoes and walk down the waterfall almost all the way. Best walk off ever! Jul 24, 2011
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.7
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.7
Karl,
The first pitch belay is actually in a scoop about 30 feet below the bolts you mentioned, though using the bolts is fine as long as nobody is using them for the face climb they are there for.
The second pitch continues up the crack past a bulge (bring a 4 inch piece for the bulge) and up the nice hand crack to a another scoop to belay...maybe 120-130 feet from the bolts.
Third pitch continues until the crack ends and you are on 4th class, belay where you can. You can then climb out on 4th class from this belay, though many will want a belay for the last bit of 4th class to the top of the dome (it is exposed). Enjoyable climb.
Cheers. Sep 28, 2009
Karl K
Phoenix, AZ
 
Karl K   Phoenix, AZ
 
I got run off after the first pitch by a thunderstorm: easy 2 rope rope off chain anchors 15' right on that sloping ledge; any info on the 2nd & 3rd pitches appreciated.
I liked the first pitch better than Holdless Horror. Aug 7, 2009