Type: Sport, 500 ft, 3 pitches
FA: John Shewchuk, Grant Hiskes, Bill Serniuk (2005)
Page Views: 2,641 total · 34/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Jul 18, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This is the next route right of Bit By Bit. The first pitch starts up a 4th class slab to some flakes. There's optional gear placements here. Then a steep section of very tightly bolted knob climbing. Above the angle lessens and you cruise over to a bolted anchor. The next pitch climbs up to another anchor below the right side of an arching roof. Pitch 3 turns the roof and then it's easy 5th class to the final anchor. Rapping the route is the quickest way down, or you can walk off to the right.

This modern sport climb was bolted over the top of an old R/X route.

Protection

Bolts, optional 2" gear getting to the first bolt.

Photos

Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10a
Thin 5.10 moves with close bolts followed by a bit more spaced 5.9 moves once you get up to the bolted line Sep 23, 2013
This is a fantastic route! Slopy crimps just deep enough to open hand all the way -- this is slab climbing at its finest.

HOWEVER, if you are not comfortable with the runout nature of YV / TM climbs, there are two sections of this route on which you will feel very uncomfortable. The last bolt of pitch 1 to the anchor bolts is 20-25(?) feet of slopy footholds. It's more positive than the 5.10 section below, but it's... thrilling. A fall here would *not* be fun.

Additionally, bolts 2 -> 3 on pitch 2 is also pretty runout. It'd sure be lovely if someone added just two bolts to these sections. I'd do it but I hear it's a faux pas to bolt over somebody else's route >_< Oct 23, 2016