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Routes in Dozier Dome

Angelic Upstart T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Avocados and Tequila T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bit by Bit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bull Dozier T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheeseburgers and Beer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cheetos and Everclear S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dozier Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dumpster Evangelist T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Errett By Bit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Errett Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Felsic S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holdless Horror T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Isostacy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Loud and Obnoxious S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Plutonics S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Read Between the Lines TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripple T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Scandalous Summer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tourette's T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ursula T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
White Lie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
You, Me, and the Dike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 550 ft, 4 pitches
FA: TM Herbert and Jeff Dozier
Page Views: 8,384 total, 67/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Aug 24, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

P1: Start on the face just right of the bush growing out of the bottom of the crack. Climb up to first horizontal ledge, or, further up to the next smaller one (80 or 100 feet?) and build a belay anchor. 5.6.
P2: The "business" pitch. Climb up and mitigate impending horror by using the "holdless" terrain rather than get engulfed in the people eatin', imposing crack. Busy, but, never hard and the pro is decent if you take the time to find the money spots. 5.7.
P3: The fun 5.6 pitch. Great climbing that gets steep and improbable looking, but, always a nice foot and/or hand hold to help you out.
P4: Final easy fifth class romp to the top. Can climb far enough up to set belay for a safe walk off following the pitch. Low angle, one short roof near the end of the pitch. Great gear, but, somewhat spread out between bomber placements.

Historically significant as the first technical rock climbing route on this Dome. Great name, too. Classic TMH.

Location

Climb is located on the west side of Dozier Dome. Look for the crack system, left of the big diagonal break in the wall, kind of in the middle of the big flat face, which extends all the way to the ground. Is a large green bush in the bottom of the crack. Crack is distinctive as its the only one on this side of the Dome that continues down below (and through) the horizontal ledge all the way to ground level. Prominent crack system viewable from a distance. Goes straight up.

Summit area has great views of Cathedral Peak area and surrounding domes.

The hike down is bonus, and, for some folks, easily as quality as the climbing. If conditions permit, hike to Cathedral Lake and then follow the water course down, taking the path of least resistance. Beautiful hike on its own. Near the bottom, where Dozier Dome starts to appear to melt into the forest on the climber's left, cut over to the base of the dome to pick up packs, if left at the base (and/or to pick up the well-marked climber's trail back to the car). Easy, fun hike with improbable positions and great scenery. Could spend a bunch of time playing around down climbing low angle friction faces, or, walking around to the left or right.

Protection

Standard rack. Nuts and single set of cams from small (1 TCU) to a #4 camalot. No fixed gear. No anchors.
The last pitch could conceivably be considered PG13 (I placed probably 4 pieces over the better part of a rope length) but the climbing is super easy. if you scramble up the initial ramp at the bottom you can do it in 3 pitches. If you stick to the crack and forgo using faceholds, the climb becomes much more interesting. Overall its a pretty good route, I'd probably recommend it as an active rest day activity. Nov 22, 2016
Like others I was a bit surprised by the PG13 rating after climbing this, but I can think of two reasons for the rating. First, the last pitch is a bit run out in places, but it is such a low grade at that point that you can run out the last half of the pitch without any real concern. If you only place cams, you might find the pro a little thin. I used 8 nuts and 2 cams on the second pitch (and then two more for the second belay anchor because I saw many more good nut placements than good cam placements. A second set of nuts might come in handy for this route. YMMV. Oct 11, 2016
Bailey Smith
  5.6
Bailey Smith  
  5.6
I guess I solo'd to the second pitch - that would be PG13 I guess. The rest of it protects very well. Super fun. Sep 12, 2016
Matt Miccioli
Stanford, CA
  5.6
Matt Miccioli   Stanford, CA
  5.6
The climb protects well the entire way and is very beginner friendly. We did it in three pitches with a 60m rope. A good little route! We found the descent straight-forward because the waterfall was not running, having crossed over to the trees to skip the steepest part of the slabs. Sep 8, 2016
Katie River
Oakland, CA
  5.6
Katie River   Oakland, CA
  5.6
Be very careful about the decent next to the slab waterfall. There is a section that requires very delicate downclimbing/shuffling on slab. It would be a 30ft fall to a flat ledge. Perhaps in a different time in the season, one would be able to find other easier paths on the left, closer to the water. Jun 6, 2016
We left an overcammed #5 on P2. If anyone is able to extract it, message me for a reward; it belongs to our trad teacher. It's over 10 years old and has lots of sentimental value. One of the students in our class accidentally pushed it in too deep when cleaning gear. Several parties after our group were unable to extract it because it was stuck so deep. A guide that attempted to clean it mentioned that a hammer might be needed because a few rock crystals kept it from coming out. Jul 27, 2015
Chad Lawver
Yosemite Village, California
Chad Lawver   Yosemite Village, California
Found an overcammed C3 at the top of P1. If it's yours, let me know the size of the cam and the color of the tape on it. I'll mail it to you if you're not local . . . Jul 7, 2015
Robert Shortt
San Francisco, California
  5.7
Robert Shortt   San Francisco, California
  5.7
Definitely not runout. Pushing the limits of 5.6 (might be a bit much for a first 5.6 lead), but easier than Bull Dozier and definitely not as good. Sep 16, 2014
Fun, mellow, and well protected. Jun 15, 2014
William Nelson
Cave Creek, AZ
William Nelson   Cave Creek, AZ
This climb is definitely 5.6 G rated . great climb with fun moves, great pro, no runouts, in great environment. Only wish it had 6-7 pitches like the first half. Top pitch is 5.0. Awesome views. I'll do it again. Jan 23, 2014
butters
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
  5.6
butters   Mammoth Lakes, Ca
  5.6
Fun Climb. did it on sept 18th. my 1st multi pitch lead. pretty mellow climbing with a few 5.7 moves. i also dont agree with the pg13 rating. there was a ton of gear placements. good 1st trad lead. easy walk off. the creek/waterfall was dry so made for an easy downclimb. lots of good knobs on the edge of the rack mixed with stemming makes it super easy on the wide parts of the crack. Sep 23, 2013
David Raines
  5.6
David Raines  
  5.6
One of the most in-aptly named climbs ever. :)
It has lots of holds, and is quite pleasant.

All old-school routes need to be treated with respect, and you need some amount of crack and slab skills to ever feel comfortable on granite, but I remember thinking this was a moderate, well protected, fun climb. I was leading 5.9 consistently at the time, so a beginning leader may have a different experience. Jul 3, 2013
Easy to find. Easy to climb. Easy to protect. Looong pitches....I used double set. My new favorite climb. Jun 22, 2012
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.6
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.6
5.7 pg13 that's a good one Sep 10, 2011
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
Don't get sucked into the wide crack too much. In my opinion it was much easier to stem and stay on the outside. Jan 2, 2011
Josh Hibbard
Los Angeles Area, CA
  5.6
Josh Hibbard   Los Angeles Area, CA
  5.6
I climbed this last week with a friend (Anne Marie). It took me too long to find it on Mountain Project because I couldn't believe it was rated 5.7 PG-13 and was looking for the 5.6 climb on Dozier Dome. I didn't notice any runout and felt the climbing more 5.6. In my opinion, this would be a classic moderate climb if crack on the final pitch was more vertical. Unfortunately, the angle lays back a bit much on the final pitch. Solid placements throughout. I extended the anchor on the final belay about 20 feet to watch the second and avoid rope drag. Sep 16, 2010
Jedidiah McClure
Paso Robles CA
Jedidiah McClure   Paso Robles CA
This route is really fun and easy. I'd give it 5.6. This is a great route for those learning to lead! This was one of my first multi-pitch leads and the ample holds made for a calm and confident climb. Protection is solid, I recall running it out about 15-20 feet several times, the many holds giving me the confidence to not zip it up. Anchors were easy to build. Ate '1 to '2 pieces, hexes worked well.

The approach hike is a pleasant walk through the trees and the down-hike is also interesting. Aug 29, 2010
Rodger Raubach  
  5.7
This climb is NOT PG13! It is very well protected with passive gear. Jul 20, 2010
rhyang
San Jose, CA
  5.6
rhyang   San Jose, CA
  5.6
Hexes work great on this one; good for practice. Jul 7, 2009
Joe Dawson
  5.7
Joe Dawson  
  5.7
I do not agree with the PG13 designation. I hate runout and I do not remember any on this route. Jun 23, 2009