All Locations > Colorado > S Platte > Staunton SP > Old Mill Area > Roughneck Area > Main Wall

Donuts and Nicotine

Name: Donuts and Nicotine
Rating: 3.0

5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British PG13

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Routes in Main Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Blue Collar Comedy Tour S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Blue Moon S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Chop Suey Slab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Derrickman, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Donuts and Nicotine T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Exfoliation Station T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Flaked Out T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Guillotine T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Iliad T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Key to the V Door T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Krispy Kreme T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Original Roughneck T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Rapa Nui S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Rig Builder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Roughneck Odyssey T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Ruffian Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Squatter (in the White House) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Thread the Needle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Tic-Tac-Toe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Tool Pusher S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	XOX T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	XXX T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13

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Type:	Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	39.52249, -105.39054
FA:	L. Stern & D. Montgomery, 5/18/13
Page Views:	1,358 total · 8/month
Shared By:	Monty on May 19, 2013
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.

- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall

Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.

Seasonal Falcon closures in effect from March 15 - July 31. - Lion's Head (not pictured). - Roughneck Area. There are no closures at Staunton Rocks.

Description

This is an adventurous route that follows the most obvious, diagonal splitter on the wall.

P1. (10+, 110 feet) Start on the right side of a pillar, and work your way up and slightly right to a splitter hand crack in a corner. 3 bolts and a couple #1 camalots protect the moves through the funky roofs. Make sure to put a sling on the second bolt or face crippling drag from the downward facing flake. Belay at a bolted stance above the second roof. (Note: this pitch was originally done without any bolts, but was retro'd by the FA party in 2020 to make it safer. The 3rd bolt in the roof is next to a #2 camalot placement, but the rock didn't inspire confidence so we added a bolt.)

P2, (9, 165 feet) This is an airy pitch that begins by climbing the crack above the belay until reaching a small, half dead tree. Place good gear and traverse left around the corner (spicy). Carefully pull around another roof and continue following the arete and various crack systems. Towards the top of the wall, angle right and belay at a bush ledge where it is possible to scramble the remaining way.

Descent: From the top, rap 85 feet off the back side of the Rough Neck Wall via an obvious large tree and descend a scree field until it is possible to loop right to your packs.