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Routes in Steel Monkey Wall

Fly, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Green Ice S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Handicapable T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Monkey's little sister S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mosquito Coast S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Radio Static S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Second Time Around S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Steel Monkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Third Times A Charm? TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wandering Stone S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
White Riot S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: mike carville
Page Views: 2,763 total · 40/month
Shared By: mike carville on Feb 17, 2013 with updates from Mark Doliner
Admins: Aron Quiter, Kyle Bishop, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: No overnight camping on PG&E property Details

Description

Bolted route left side of main wall.

Location

Bolted route left side of main wall.

Protection

Bolts. This climb shares top anchors with Radio Static

Photos

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Renaud
Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Renaud   Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Great dynamic movement on this one. Surprisingly pumpy for how short the route is.
Crux is between 2nd and 3rd bolt. Clipping the 3rd bolt definitely adds to the pump factor and the route is significantly easier with draws already in place. Mostly good jugs after that... you just have to manage the pump. Oct 26, 2015
This line is CLASSIC, and as hard as steel shit, thrown by a steel monkey.

Polished holds of all types, up a steep section of rock. A must do for all 5.12 climbers. Super good. Apr 23, 2016
Lou Cerutti
Carlsbad, California
Lou Cerutti   Carlsbad, California
Easy to set a top rope on this at the end of the day and play around in the shade. Sep 16, 2016
Marek Hajek
Reno, NV
  5.12a/b
Marek Hajek   Reno, NV
  5.12a/b
As classic and popular as these climbs have gotten, it would be nice to have independent anchors for Steel Monkey and Radio Static. At the top, Steel Monkey has a fun boulder problem going straight up, so an anchor could be placed in line with the last bolt, level with Radio Static anchors. Unfortunately, I don't have the equipment to add an anchor myself. May 25, 2017
mike carville
  5.12a
mike carville  
  5.12a
yes, separate anchors are in the works. cheers, m May 28, 2017
EthanC
  5.12a/b
EthanC  
  5.12a/b
If you are working the route, you can make this feel a bit safer by hanging an alpine draw off the second bolt, then you can clip from the jug before pulling onto the face. I know this is weak sauce but I took a pretty rough fall the first time I tried to hang the 2nd draw, subsequently used a stick clip to hang an alpine off the second. Just giving the option to learn from my mistakes. Notwithstanding, a fantastic route. Oct 4, 2017
Separate anchor + direct finish now in place-enjoy! May 31, 2018

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