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Routes in Steel Monkey Wall

Fly, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Green Ice S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Monkey's little sister S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mosquito Coast S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Radio Static S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Second Time Around S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Steel Monkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wandering Stone S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
White Riot S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: mike carville
Page Views: 760 total, 13/month
Shared By: mike carville on Feb 17, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Kyle Bishop, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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No overnight camping on PG&E property Details

Description

powerful crux near top of route

Location

right of radio static

Protection

bolts

Photos

Caliza
  5.12d
Caliza  
  5.12d
Hey Marek, I know exactly the sequence your talking about and thanks for your beta. But after going back and working it some more, I found it more natural to go left to the crimpy pegs than to have to swap hands on the knob that feels pretty awkward. For me going left to the pegs keeps the flow and rhythm of the line even tho right seems to be the intended route.

I do think calling the climb up to the crux 5.11+ is sandbagged. The moves are way more complicated and difficult than its neighbor Radio Static, 5.11d. They do feel easier after you unlock them but not as easy as Radio Static after having unlocked that. The climbing up to the crux feels more on-par with Steel Monkey than Radio Static. So 5.12- in my opinion.

Cheers. Aug 20, 2017
Marek Hajek
Reno, NV
  5.12d
Marek Hajek   Reno, NV
  5.12d
Yes, the bottom is quite sustained with one bouldery move after another. I thought there were a lot of 11d moves up to the 4th bolt and possibly one or two 12a moves. When I started working the route, the bottom felt really, really hard and only after a few attempts and fine tuning the sequences would I call the bottom 11d'ish.
The crux puzzled me for a while because I simply couldn't use the glued holds. After my first couple of tries, I almost gave up on this route, thinking it would be too hard for me. Even though I figured an alternate sequence, not using the glued holds, it was difficult to conceive that I could arrive rested enough at the 4th bolt to pull off what I refer to as V6 crux (It could be V7 as Caliza points out). I probably gave it at least 10x attempts before I sent it.

If someone doesn't like beta, please, don't read this paragraph. In case this is helpful, here is how I solved the crux sequence, starting about 35' up: From a left hand sidepull and a right foot backstep clip the 4th bolt quickly (your body is in torsion here, so you want to get through this quickly) and reach high with right hand for a decent knob - height dependent for sure. Step through with left foot, then, left hand crimp on what feels like a thin foot hold, bump right hand to another thin foot-hold-size crimp to the right of the knob and quickly move the left hand to the knob - this hand switch is the opening crux sequence. Bring both feet quite high, at least waste level, maybe higher, then lunge up and slightly right for a slopey crimp with the right hand while rocking over the feet - height dependent again. This slopey crimp is at a little bit of an angle. If it was angled more, it would be a right-hand ghaston. Then, while standing over right foot and still holding onto the knob with the left hand, bring the left foot to a slippery hold below the knob - not quite a hand foot match, but close. Don't pull with the left foot too much while holding the right-hand crimp for dear life and rocking over the left foot as you're going for a relatively huge hold with the left hand - I can't tell you how many times my foot blew off this slippery hold. Aug 13, 2017
Caliza
  5.12d
Caliza  
  5.12d
Climbing to the 4th bolt on this one definitely feels harder than 11c, it's harder than Steel Monkey up to the 4th in my opinion. I have no idea what to do at the crux, it seems very height dependant to me, and at least V7. Seems like something broke at the crux too. There's glue on the useless sloper crimps. I suspect there was something better on top of these holds once upon a time. Green Ice is an awesome climb up until the crux where it loses flavor. Feels harder than most 13a's I've been on. Aug 5, 2017
Marek Hajek
Reno, NV
  5.12d
Marek Hajek   Reno, NV
  5.12d
I am curious, when it was initially put up and rated, was there glue/bird crap (I can't tell which it is) on the two crimpers at the crux? The two most logical holds are virtually unusable at 5.12 level because the deposits make the holds smaller and slick. There is an alternate, reachy sequence, going up and right of the two holds to a crimper. I would guess the sequence is about V6 which is hard to do once you are worked from the lower section.

Beware: there is quite a bit of rust on the lower bolts. Don't know what that means in terms of safety and bolt integrity. The crux bolt looks good. It looks like it has been replaced recently - there is an old, rusty bolt stump a few inches below it. Jun 5, 2017
Ales Kobrle
San Jose
 
Ales Kobrle   San Jose
 
Really nice. Sequency 11c climbing up to 4th bolt. Powerful boulder to pass 4th bolt (couple different ways how to do it), then pumpy 10.d finish. May 30, 2017