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Routes in Steel Monkey Wall

Fly, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Green Ice S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Monkey's little sister S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mosquito Coast S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Radio Static S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Second Time Around S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Steel Monkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wandering Stone S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
White Riot S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: Matt Franklin
Page Views: 547 total, 27/month
Shared By: Matt Franklin on Apr 4, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Kyle Bishop, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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No overnight camping on PG&E property Details

Description

Start on the big block above the awesome oak tree 'bench' to a small ledge above first bolt, then work your way up the face on good holds.

Location

To the left of 'Second Time Around'

Protection

7 quick draws and currently just hangers at the top. You can also pretty easily setup a top rope for this and 'Second Time Around'.

Photos

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Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
  5.9+
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
  5.9+
There's a few different ways of doing it. Some easier than others. Jul 3, 2017
Sergey Shevelev
San Francisco, CA
  5.10
Sergey Shevelev   San Francisco, CA
  5.10
Unless I missed something, the move just before you get to clip the second bolt is not 5.8 or 5.9 move. I've seen it done in 2 different ways, but both of them do not seem 5.8 or 5.9, and more like 5.10. Also, if you fall before clipping that second bolt, there's potential to hit the ledge (which I've seen too). Jul 3, 2017
Ales Kobrle
San Jose
  5.10b
Ales Kobrle   San Jose
  5.10b
Nice route, but feels more like 10b. May 30, 2017
Matt Franklin
Sacramento, CA
 
Matt Franklin   Sacramento, CA
 
Thanks Mike! Glad you enjoyed it. I'll go back next chance I get and add some chains to your links so they have some good company. I agree there are a few moves in the climb that push into the 5.9 realm I'll up the grade. I was on the fence about it myself but hadn't any other input. Appreciate the feedback!! Apr 8, 2016
Hi Matt. I just climbed this today(April 7,2016) and felt it was well bolted for the terrain given. I did feel it was more 5.9. My 2 cents. Ps I put a couple thick,quick links on top but think 2 more would make the others feel less lonely;-) Thanks for a fun route man! Apr 8, 2016