Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mike Carville, April 1990
Page Views: 101 total · 81/month
Shared By: Louis Mullerleile on May 13, 2019
Admins: Aron Quiter, Kyle Bishop, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No overnight camping on PG&E property Details

Description

This is the obvious overhang problem. Trust me the movement is even more fun then it looks!
Due to a broken hold the route now starts up White Riot(crack dihedral) until you can reach the obvious reinforced jug out left. Fire some fun big moves to situate your self over the roof,  traverse left to the jugs under the bolt line, avoiding moving over to the crack on the right(this whole bit felt mid 5.12). From here bust straight up using some interesting side pulls and edges to a cool pocket. Continue straight up from here through more edges and a sloper to finishing jug under the White Riot anchors( lower to mid 5.13). Bouldery route, super fun, and deserves more attention!

*****WARNING*****I HIGHLY RECOMMEND SKIPPING THE FIRST BOLT WITH THE BLUE TAG, PRE-CLIPPING & EXTENDING THE SECOND(OR ALSO SKIPPING), AND EXTENDING THE THIRD BOLT. You want to make sure the rope isn't going to get snagged under the sharp edge of the roof by the first two bolts! A fall from the top of the route could lead to a VERY HARD catch due to the way the rope drags under the roof and over that edge. I would climb White Riot(5.11a) and on the way down pre-clip the bolts at the beginning.

Location

Right of Bad Monkey. Start on White Riot(crack)

Protection

6 bolts

Photos

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