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Steel Monkey

5.12a, Sport, 70 ft,  Avg: 3.8 from 33 votes
FA: mike carville
California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Bowman/Emeralds > Emeralds > Benches > Steel Monkey Wall
Access Issue: No overnight camping on PG&E property Details

Description

Bolted route left side of main wall.

Location

Bolted route left side of main wall.

Protection

Bolts. This climb shares top anchors with Radio Static

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Steel Monkey"        Photo: Josh Horniak
[Hide Photo] Steel Monkey" Photo: Josh Horniak
Looking like a monkey on Steel Monkey
[Hide Photo] Looking like a monkey on Steel Monkey

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Renaud
Boulder, CO
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Great dynamic movement on this one. Surprisingly pumpy for how short the route is.
Crux is between 2nd and 3rd bolt. Clipping the 3rd bolt definitely adds to the pump factor and the route is significantly easier with draws already in place. Mostly good jugs after that... you just have to manage the pump. Oct 26, 2015
[Hide Comment] This line is CLASSIC, and as hard as steel shit, thrown by a steel monkey.

Polished holds of all types, up a steep section of rock. A must do for all 5.12 climbers. Super good. Apr 23, 2016
Lou Cerutti
Carlsbad, California
[Hide Comment] Easy to set a top rope on this at the end of the day and play around in the shade. Sep 16, 2016
Marek Hajek
Reno, NV
  5.12a/b
[Hide Comment] As classic and popular as these climbs have gotten, it would be nice to have independent anchors for Steel Monkey and Radio Static. At the top, Steel Monkey has a fun boulder problem going straight up, so an anchor could be placed in line with the last bolt, level with Radio Static anchors. Unfortunately, I don't have the equipment to add an anchor myself. May 25, 2017
mike carville
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] yes, separate anchors are in the works. cheers, m May 28, 2017
EthanC
  5.12a/b
[Hide Comment] If you are working the route, you can make this feel a bit safer by hanging an alpine draw off the second bolt, then you can clip from the jug before pulling onto the face. I know this is weak sauce but I took a pretty rough fall the first time I tried to hang the 2nd draw, subsequently used a stick clip to hang an alpine off the second. Just giving the option to learn from my mistakes. Notwithstanding, a fantastic route. Oct 4, 2017
[Hide Comment] Separate anchor + direct finish now in place-enjoy! May 31, 2018