Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Bruce Garrett, Don Heller. FFA p2 Terry Lien,Darryl Cramer,Brian Scott. FA var. p2 Byan Burdo
Page Views: 4,344 total · 31/month
Shared By: Derek Pearson on Nov 16, 2012 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Start by following right facing flakes (5.9), using one small cam then four bolts, and trending rightward to the finger crack. The crux is either the thin finger crack or the face climbing just afterwards (11a).

If you cut right 15 feet from the belay you'll be climbing Larry’s Gaily Colored Lycra (10c). If you started too far left off the P1 anchor you are climbing Metal.

The route also had an aid pitch over the roof, at the very top of the slab (see Clint's topo). Now one can instead follow P3 of Ride the Lightning.

Rap the route doing two raps with 60. A 70 doesn't quite reach the bottom.

Location Suggest change

P2 goes straight up from the anchor on P1.

Protection Suggest change

Four bolts and a blue tcu will get your into the finger crack, no more pitons or brass nuts.  p2 A single rack to 2 is sufficient with doubles of 0 and 00 master cams to sew it up.

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