Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Cramer Lien April 1987
Page Views: 1,521 total · 69/month
Shared By: Adam Wood on Apr 1, 2019
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

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Access Issue: The Novel Coronavirus & 2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Cryptic and delicate movement past bolts and pins leads onto a slab. This first half goes around 10d with emphasis on reading the rock for smart feet.   Clip a fixed pin in a hole with optional gear then start sneaking up one of Index’s finest slab puzzles. This section has a very “Phone Calls from the Dead” feel.

Follow subtle knobs with hand foot matches past bolts. Cut left below a final angled piton (climbing to this piton puts you off route) to a crack taking small cams (was previously a piton) before one bolt and the anchor. The crux can sit in a small lingering wet streak visible from the road. It’s dry if the belay chains are dry.

This climb can be top roped by climbing a short 5.9 corner above the Racer X pitch two anchors. This corner may need some cleaning.

Location

Right of Racer X and left of Beetle Bailey pitch 2. Climb either Racer X pitch 1 (5.7) or Beetle Bailey pitch 1 (10d) from the chains look directly up and slightly left you will see a fixed knife blade followed  by bolts. If you traverse too far left you will be on Racer X.

Protection

7 bolts 2 fixed pitons and a couple finger/ tips cams could be helpful.

Photos