Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches
FA: P1 A. Wood, D. Taylor P2 D. Taylor, G. Shank P3/4 FA A. Wood, J. Mack, S. McAmis
Page Views: 7,689 total · 130/month
Shared By: Adam Wood on Sep 9, 2019
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan

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Description Suggest change

This is why you started rock climbing. Inspiring roofs, slabs, traverses and exposure rolled into four very different moderate pitches. Everything to test the new 5.10 leader. 


P1  Climb “Behind the Tomb Stone. 5.9

P2 “Rope Eating Mice” Bolts and a couple finger to tight hand size gear placements. Face moves to start into expanding flakes and a high crux. Stop at the first set of anchors NOT the high set of rap rings. 10a/b

P3 “ From the lower belay, make an easy traverse right, up a ramp with optional gear, aiming for an obvious low bolt on an exposed Arete (5.6)  At the bolt match low then make an exposed karate kick to good feet and slap out right to a jug. Follow bolts up exposed terrain minding your feet with a few reachy moves. 10c

P4 This pitch can be seen from the pullout by the river. It’s a fantastic clip up on slabby mantles, high steps and a memorable foot traverse with extraordinary views of Mt Index and the river singing in the background. 10a

The FA team completed the route sans headlamp during an end of season lightning storm 2019. 

Location Suggest change

From the base of Beetle Bailey Slab, you will see a large triangular headstone driven into the duff. Locate “Behind the Tomb Stone” and go for it!

Update: Stay RIGHT at each belay.
At the top of P1 going hard left will send you onto “Tiny Dancer” this is a fantastic fully bolted alternative to “Rope eating Mice” but much better approached from “Index Archeology” From the top of P2 stay hard right out the arete. Going left takes you onto “Kiss the Sky” which does link into the base of P4. (An awesome variation for the 11b climber)

Descent:

70 M ROPE!!!! Lower from the 4th to 3rd pitch. Make a long free hanging rap from the top of the 3rd pitch to the anchors atop “Behind the Tomb Stone”

Gear:

12 quick draws single rack to 1inch, 70 meter rope
P1 Bolts 5.9+
P2 0.75, 1 and 0.3 Camelot, Bolts 10a/b
p3 Bolts 10c
p4. Bolts 10a

Protection Suggest change

12 quick draws. Blue TCU and a couple mid sized cams to sew it.

Photos

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