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Tiny Dancer
5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.9 from 22
votes
Routes in Beetle Bailey Slab
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36 Volts to Anywhere T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Anthropocene, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Argentinosaurus S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Beetle Bailey P-1 VAR. S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Beetle Bailey P1 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Beetle Bailey P2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Behind the Tombstone S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cupcake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Drunken Master S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Everything Hertz T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Flying Salamanders (Full) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flying Salamanders (Short) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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From the Ground Up S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Full Metal Jacket S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hedge Trimmer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Index Archeology T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Kiss the Sky S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Larry’s Gaily Colored Lycra T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Master Wong (Short) S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Master Wong’s Super Sad Day S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Metal T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mosasaurus S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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MSK S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Prehistoric Connection, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Racer X S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ride the Lightning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rope Eating Mice T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Short Metal Jacket S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Smilodon Fatalis S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tiny Dancer S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tommy Dutra Memorial Route S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Tommy Dutra Memorial Route (short) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Village Idiot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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War on Dougs S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Your Brain on Dougs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 47.81692, -121.57748 |
| FA: | Michal Rynkiewicz, Adam Wood, Ryan Hoover, Sherri Lewis |
| Page Views: | 1,166 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Sherri Lewis on Aug 28, 2021 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
Tiny Dancer goes up the slab just a few feet to the left of Rope Eating Mice but dances to its own tune. Break out your best footwork for the thoughtful sequences on thin edges.
From the top of Behind the Tombstone, follow the bolt line that trends LEFT above the belay ledge and continue left towards the flake. From a good stance on the ramp, clip the bolt on the slab and figure out how to gracefully pull yourself onto the slab. This may be one of the rare occasions that shorter climbers get a leg up. Glissade up the slab to the anchor(mussy hooks) shared with the start of the 3rd pitch of Ride the Lightning. (For another 15ft or so of .10a/b climbing, join Rope Eating Mice here by continuing past the RTL anchor, moving right into the white corner --one more bolt -- and following knobs and crimps in the roof to the Rope Eating Mice anchor.)
"Dancing On My Grave" (approx 130ft?, .10b) -- start your lead from the ground, combining Behind the Tombstone with Tiny Dancer for one long pitch of Index awesomeness, finishing at the Ride the Lightning anchor. Add a few more draws and slings and a Green Alien or blue TCU to the rack noted below when doing this combo as one pitch. Can be toproped from the base of BTT with an 80m rope.
Note: Tiny Dancer is also the 2nd pitch/approach pitch for "Kiss the Sky."
Descent: an 80m rope gets you back to the ground from the Ride the Lightning anchor. If lowering with a 70m, it is best to stop at Behind the Tombstone anchor.
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