Index Archeology
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 47.81692, -121.57748 |
| FA: | Max Dufford |
| Page Views: | 2,829 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | Adam Wood on Jun 3, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
Climb rampy jugs with big feet up the middle of a triangular face. Moving right clip a bolt and place a finger size cam in a horizontal cracked feature. Break soft left on face moves past two bolts to a pedestal belay for Racer-X/Metal/Beetle Bailey.
Use the 3-bolt anchor at the top of Beetle Bailey p1 after some easy scrambling from the top of the pillar.
SHORT CLIMBER NOTICE: Several shorter climbers have stated that this line has reaches that make for a potential ledge fall in the bottom half of the route. The “Vertically Challenged” will need their belayer to be ON-POINT and ready to take up some rope. Alternatively, have a partner that’s taller than 5’8” and let them take the sharp end for this one.
Location
Splits the triangular face between Beetle Bailey Pitch 1 (10c) and the 5.7 ramp start for racer X. Look for three bolts.
Previously an unnamed solo that was retro-bolted sometime pre-1991. During restoration cleaning in 2019 the original (retrobolted) hardware was upgraded. A bolt was added below to make this climb safe and now offers climbers an alternative moderate start for Racer-X, rather than the often dirty 5.7 ramp.



8 Comments