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Beetle Bailey P2

5.11a, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 30 votes
FA: Bruce Garrett, Don Heller. FFA p2 Terry Lien,Darryl Cramer,Brian Scott. FA var. p2 Byan Burdo
Washington > Central-W Casca… > Skykomish Valley > Index > Lower Lump Area > (a) Beetle Bailey Slab

Description

Start by following right facing flakes (5.9), using one small cam then four bolts, and trending rightward to the finger crack. The crux is either the thin finger crack or the face climbing just afterwards (11a).

If you cut right 15 feet from the belay you'll be climbing Larry’s Gaily Colored Lycra (10c). If you started too far left off the P1 anchor you are climbing Metal.

The route also had an aid pitch over the roof, at the very top of the slab (see Clint's topo). Now one can instead follow P3 of Ride the Lightning.

Rap the route doing two raps with 60. A 70 doesn't quite reach the bottom.

Location

P2 goes straight up from the anchor on P1.

Protection

Four bolts and a blue tcu will get your into the finger crack, no more pitons or brass nuts.  p2 A single rack to 2 is sufficient with doubles of 0 and 00 master cams to sew it up.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Leading the finger crack on P2
[Hide Photo] Leading the finger crack on P2
Pitch two. Cleaned and ready
[Hide Photo] Pitch two. Cleaned and ready
The finger crack on p2
[Hide Photo] The finger crack on p2
Beetle Bailey Arch Area
[Hide Photo] Beetle Bailey Arch Area
Looking down at the first half of p2
[Hide Photo] Looking down at the first half of p2

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Derek Pearson
Snohomish, WA
5.11a
[Hide Comment] It can also be aided in winter. Nov 16, 2012
CourtneyB
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] Pitch 1 requires a lot of try hard with your right bicep and smearing of your feet. I placed a #3 between the 3rd bolt and the anchors. Another climber used a "finger sized" cam in the same area. Burly and enjoyable. Aug 18, 2019
Adam Wood
seattle
 
[Hide Comment] Regarding the 2nd pitch; all three pitons were pulled today with permission. Three 1/2 inch ASCA bolts now make for very safe climbing off the pedestal belay. I also pulled and replaced the two bolts on the 11a variation. I suggest parties top rope from this variation or use directionals as the line wanders right. Aug 19, 2019
Jerome Graham
 
[Hide Comment] TR'd the hell out of p1. Very enjoyable! Powerful, technical feet smearing. It's bolted in a way that would be very safe for leading, too. Sep 4, 2019
scottrinck
 
[Hide Comment] Climbed pitches 1 & 2 today. The new hardware is super welcome. A single rack with an emphasis on small cams (0, 00) will easily do the job. No need to go crazy with the micro nuts. The P2 crack is definitely classic, and the knobby finish is icing on an already tasty cake. Thanks to Adam and crew for the cleanup and refitting!!! Nov 5, 2019
Nate Redon
Seattle, WA
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] One of the best pitches I've done at Index. It's easy to get to the knobby variation's anchor from Rope Eating Mice full if you're not up for the lead (everyone should do the awesome bolted 11a finish). From the anchor you can just barely use an 80m rope for a mega top rope of anything on the slab (also relatively straightforward to get to Metal's anchor). Jul 22, 2020
Don Harder
Yosemite via Seattle
[Hide Comment] Just saw this post. I was not involved in the first ascent of this. It may have been Donn Heller. He climbed a lot with Bruce Garrett. Aug 26, 2020
Derek Pearson
Snohomish, WA
5.11a
[Hide Comment] Okay thanks Don . I copied it from the Clint guide . I can change it . Aug 27, 2020
Janai Wallace
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] Climbed this yesterday, about 3/4 way up the finger crack WASPS have made the crack their home. I was lucky enough to put my cam right in their nesting spot. They didn’t seem aggressive (no stings). But be ware Jul 31, 2021
Chris Kalman
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] Incredible climb! Very reasonable to link w/ P1 using a single 70 and a grip of slings, but it won't get you back to the ground. Stop at the P1 anchors and belay your second up from there, or clean on your way down and do two raps. Aug 29, 2022
Daniel Heins
Seattle
[Hide Comment] Very fun! Also linked P1 & 2. Like Chris said, a 70 will get you back to the first anchors (without too much to spare, so do knot your end!). Rope drag wasn't bad. Definitely some pine needle accumulation, but nothing terrible and the crack itself was clean.

I felt pretty comfy without using any 00s (but did use 2x 0 mastercam equivalents), agree on otherwise single rack to #2. May 28, 2023