Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: Maxwell Kincaid, Chris Koppl
Page Views: 603 total · 7/month
Shared By: Maxwell Kincaid on Nov 15, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

WARNING: R/X rating

Start on the 10 foot face climb below the crack and place a cam in the little horizontal crack. With some leans and fresh hand holds you'll get to the next cam placement which is a little noticeable (there was nowhere else to protect) pocket that opened between some mossy crack. change position again and continue higher. you can utilize that two and a half after you've figured out how to apply pressure to the flake thats flexing under your weight(suggest-ably stay off the damn thing, by distributing your weight to the right, others wanna climb too before you start breaking things). after you pass the first forty feet you've survived the crux. I personally thought the crux to be after the first 10 and before 33 feet.
There is a tree at the top of the route that you can run the rope around and rappel off of.

rated 3 stars for : oh my god I'm alive!

PS I wouldn't normally have given any climb such safety rating, but having dealt with the fact that the crack you're protecting also happens to be the seemingly wobbly flake, I figure give people a heads up. I didn't want to fall. I don't think anyone does, but It may deserve an R/X rating.

Location

walk from either the side road pull off or the bear gulch parking/ employee housing. The route is at the base of the Skreetching Halt! in the river bed. there are two flakes that wafer into sharp edges. you follow that very obvious crack line.

Protection

I truly carried a full rack of Helium Cams and a purple BD 1/3 inch. I got by without using my 3.5 inch. I suggest Double 1/4 inch cam, double 1/3 inch cam, 2.5 inch cam,1 inch cam, 4 inch cam, with obvious draws with runners. there are not bolts. Use tree at the top out of the crack line to Simul-rappel down the wall and fight out of the bushes below.

Photos