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Routes in (e) Maiden Buttress

Fool's Rush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Illegitimate, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Maiden T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Looking Backward T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maiden Heaven T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Maiden Voyage T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
One Nut Willie T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stinger T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Warm Fuzzies T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
White Maiden's Walkway T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Z Crack, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Zeno's Paradox T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Zuma T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 750 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Omar Conger, Barbara Lilley, and Don Rappolee, 1959
Page Views: 2,613 total · 35/month
Shared By: Benjamin Chapman on Sep 30, 2012 with updates from tom donnelly
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Fool's Rush climbs a series of corners to the right of the Maiden Buttress. Follow the corner system over flakey and blocky rock to an overhang. Pass the overhang on the left and belay below another overhang. Turn the overhang on the right and continue up broken rock to a nice ledge on the right. Move up and left to join White Maiden's Walkaway for the final pitch.


Fool's Rush follows a corner system on the right side of the White Maiden Buttress.


Small nuts and cams to 3 inches. Numerous runners.
Both the guide book and the OP description is a bit lacking. My version: Go up the easy gully passing the first large overhang in a notch to the right. Above it is a nice ledge. Continue in the nice right-facing dihedral for a bit and then exit left onto the face, past the next overhang. I think the proper way to finish is to continue in the right facing dihedral but I followed some easier terrain to the left, but right of the White Maiden's Walkway. I will post some pics.

Ben Crowell
Ben Crowell  
Excellent protection on every pitch, mostly small passive pieces. On the first pitch, there were a lot of blocks wedged into the gulley that could have been loose. There was some bushwhacking involved, and we found ourselves in a few awkward belays, including one where we got intimate with a young oak tree. In several cases we were unable to reach a desirable belay with a 60 meter rope. A 70 meter rope would have given us better options. Oct 25, 2014
Oz Despacio Munoz  
Again excellent pro on this route as we went up left on the first roof instead of right as Mr tradoholic suggests and I think it was a mistake because it seemed more like 5.8 to me and I was cleaning up on that pitch ! only thing that detracts from this route is the a couple of uncomfortable belays with our 60m . really fun route though just bring lots of slings to avoid rope drag ! Jun 10, 2015

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