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Routes in (e) Maiden Buttress

Fool's Rush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Illegitimate, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Maiden T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Looking Backward T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maiden Heaven T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Maiden Voyage T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
One Nut Willie T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stinger T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Warm Fuzzies T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
White Maiden's Walkaway T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Z Crack, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Zeno's Paradox T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Zuma T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Dave Evans, Craig Fry, Margy Floyd, Todd Battey and Charles Cole, August 1985
Page Views: 545 total, 5/month
Shared By: Murf on Sep 21, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Almost never done, The Z Crack pines for attention from those who want to plumb some of Tahquitz's hidden gems. It is also a great way to get the blood pumping for the layback of Zeno's Paradox.

The Z Crack is recognized by the distinctive dogleg crack on the left wall of the Maiden Buttress. It starts at about the same height of The Long Climb. Climb up to the small alcove before the right jog in the crack, passing an interesting finger lock or two. Eyeball as much of the crack to come as you can, as the next stretch is pumpy, with glossy feet and hard to read pro. A few tricky rests can be found. Once to the end of this section, pro must be chosen carefully and extended well. Move right around a flake, clipping the upwardly driven pin (offer a prayer to the gods of your choice that whoever of the FA crowd put the thing in wielded a skillful hammer). Do the crux, which involves a long move to somewhat less than solid rock, which eases considerably in a few pulls. Belay where the pitch joins The Illegitimate.

From here either continue to the top on The Illegitimate or Zeno's Paradox.

Protection

Finger sizes work well for the crack, with the occasional hand size. The rack will probably be dictated more by what route you'll choose to get to the top.

The pin is really a key piece of gear, as nothing else can be had for quite a while. The pitch should be considered serious, as if the pin pulls, you'll probably get hurt.

Photos

The description is incorrect, go 30ft up a crack to small tree then traverse way LEFT not right as descibed. The traverse left is the crux, smears for feet and tricky jams, good pro though, some little bushes in the way however.

At the end of the left traverse is the small roof with a piton on its right side. The piton is ok, you could hang on it but not fall on it. If it comes out, looks like there's a sweet C3 placement in its place. Regardless there's good pro only a few feet to the left anyway.

Overall this could use some traffic to clean up the left traverse. It's a good challenging 10. Jul 17, 2016