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Routes in (e) Maiden Buttress

Fool's Rush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Illegitimate, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Maiden T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Looking Backward T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maiden Heaven T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Maiden Voyage T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Warm Fuzzies T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
White Maiden's Walkaway T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Z Crack, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Zeno's Paradox T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, Kelly Vaught, and Frank Bentwood, October 2009
Page Views: 834 total, 8/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Oct 12, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Begin 20 feet right of Maiden Heaven at a small lieback/undercling flake. Climb the slab past 5 bolts up to a corner (#2 camalot).

From here you can end the pitch at a ledge a bit higher (1 to 3 inch CDs for an anchor/TR rig) and downclimb off to the right (5.0) -or- traverse up and left from the start of the corner (5.7 PG ) to a sixth bolt, then climb up and left following the arete, clipping the final 4 bolts of Maiden Heaven.

This makes for a great, long (150 ft) slab pitch with ten bolts total (gear anchor).

A short downclimb leads to a tree you can rap from (80 ft.)

Location

Starts 20 feet right of Maiden Heaven.

Protection

10 bolts, 1 to 3 inch CDs

Photos

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J Smith
5.10d
J Smith  
5.10d
Nice route. Mostly 5.9 or easier climbing with a short crux section on smears near the 4th bolt. Gear or some webbing/cord through a constriction for the anchor - it would be difficult to set up a TR on this route. Be prepared to leave some slingage around the tree to rap, sometimes it disappears. Sep 9, 2012
x15x15  
this is a really fun route. it looks like you could just run up the initial slab, but it becomes much harder and better than it looks from below. do the traverse to the other route and finish up clipping more bolts. real, honest, good fun... imho... Aug 21, 2011