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Routes in (e) Maiden Buttress
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Fool's Rush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Illegitimate, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Iron Maiden T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Looking Backward T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Maiden Heaven T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Maiden Voyage T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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One Nut Willie T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Stinger T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Warm Fuzzies T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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White Maiden's Walkway T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Z Crack, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Zeno's Paradox T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Zuma T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | Bob Gaines, Kelly Vaught, and Frank Bentwood, October 2009 |
| Page Views: | 1,534 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Gaines on Oct 12, 2009 |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
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Description
Begin 20 feet right of Maiden Heaven at a small lieback/undercling flake. Climb the slab past 5 bolts up to a corner (#2 camalot).
From here you can end the pitch at a ledge a bit higher (1 to 3 inch CDs for an anchor/TR rig) and downclimb off to the right (5.0) -or- traverse up and left from the start of the corner (5.7 PG ) to a sixth bolt, then climb up and left following the arete, clipping the final 4 bolts of Maiden Heaven.
This makes for a great, long (150 ft) slab pitch with ten bolts total (gear anchor).
A short downclimb leads to a tree you can rap from (80 ft.)
From here you can end the pitch at a ledge a bit higher (1 to 3 inch CDs for an anchor/TR rig) and downclimb off to the right (5.0) -or- traverse up and left from the start of the corner (5.7 PG ) to a sixth bolt, then climb up and left following the arete, clipping the final 4 bolts of Maiden Heaven.
This makes for a great, long (150 ft) slab pitch with ten bolts total (gear anchor).
A short downclimb leads to a tree you can rap from (80 ft.)
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