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Routes in (e) Maiden Buttress

Fool's Rush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Illegitimate, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Maiden T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Looking Backward T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maiden Heaven T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Maiden Voyage T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
One Nut Willie T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stinger T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Warm Fuzzies T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
White Maiden's Walkway T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Z Crack, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Zeno's Paradox T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Zuma T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Rick Linski, Diane Linski & Bob Sachs
Page Views: 83 total · 5/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Aug 20, 2017
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A variation pitch approached via White Maiden or Illegitimate. From WM it's a tricky turn around a corner into a nice layback, then step left again for a splitter finger crack. Finish by moving right onto a 8in deep ledge, then straight up or right to a belay on WM. Some nasty loose blocks to reach WM, be careful.
The approach from Illegitimate goes straight up into it but it harder to protect.

Also, careful on the approach from WM, there's a very large hollow flake, ok to climb on but don't place in it. I climbed higher than the traverse into the corner and placed a piece above the hollow flake (next to a fixed cam) and then down climbed back to the leftward traverse.

Location

Right of Zeno's Paradox and left of left-most variation of White Maiden.

Protection

Takes everything to C4 #3 and protects well.

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