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Routes in (e) Maiden Buttress

Fool's Rush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Illegitimate, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Maiden T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Looking Backward T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maiden Heaven T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Maiden Voyage T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
One Nut Willie T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stinger T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Warm Fuzzies T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
White Maiden's Walkaway T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Z Crack, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Zeno's Paradox T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Zuma T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Randy Vogel and Randy Grandstaff, 1979
Page Views: 784 total · 5/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This two pitch climb is on the right side of the Maiden Buttress. Scrambling and some easy fifth class rock take you up to the base of the climb. On pitch 1 (5.10a), a steep finger and hand crack leads up to a short, splitter 5.10 thin finger crack. A very thin, right-facing lieback above is the crux. Pitch 2 (5.9) is a hand to offwidth crack in the back of a flared chimney.

Protection

Standard rack, with extra thin gear for pitch 1.

Photos

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We traversed off left before the very thin right facing corner. It looked unprotectable, is it? Aug 20, 2017