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Routes in (e) Maiden Buttress

Fool's Rush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Illegitimate, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Maiden T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Looking Backward T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maiden Heaven T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Maiden Voyage T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
One Nut Willie T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stinger T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Warm Fuzzies T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
White Maiden's Walkway T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Z Crack, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Zeno's Paradox T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Zuma T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Spencer Lennard and Chris Robbins, 1978
Page Views: 2,621 total · 19/month
Shared By: Jeff S on Aug 19, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route can be reached from the first pitch of The Illegitimate (5.9.). Exit right from the belay to reach a large and green lichen covered flake(10c). Climb the flake up through a small roof and onto a steep face (10d). Some slabby moves will lead you up past two bolts (3/8") and then finish on a short section of the The Illegitimate for a belay at a large pine tree.

Protection

The flake should protect well using cams up to 4"; nuts may also be utilized in a thin parallel crack. If you set up a toprope be sure to use some pieces for directionals as the rope does not fall directly upon the flake.

Photos

Murf  
Bolts are bad, but you are on positive ground before you are too far off the initial bolt.

The layback is powerful, Tony has good advice, at least 3 big pieces, a #3, a #3.5, and a #4 work.

I see Tony G's comment when I type this one, but not while viewing the climb, odd. Sep 1, 2008
tony grice  
 
Just lead it 2 days ago.

Belay at the base of a killer thin crack with small bushes growing out of it about 50' below Zeno's dihedral. We approached via White Maiden's Walkaway better choice would be via The Illegitimate (exit Illigetimate 1/2 way or so up its 2nd pitch small ledge at base of thin crack). Belay takes .4 thru #1.

Climb off the belay into a nice tips crack (10a) (mind the shrubbery) pro thin cams (blue TCU, green Alien). Then get on up into the bomber, colorful, pumpy, granite dihedral crack. I placed a #3.5, 2 #3's, and one #2 (thin crack pro is available). At the top of the dihedral you encounter awsome moves surmounting the roof (med pro - yellow Alien, orange TCU) (Downclimable), then got up to the holy shit bolts. Should have checked here before the climb. Downclimbed and traversed into Illigitimate. Onsight ruined. new bolts coming? Super climb! Bomber rock! Sep 1, 2008
Great classic/ combo is to climb Looking Backwards - then onto Zeno's.... Feb 2, 2009
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
 
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
 
Bolts replaced 05/2009. Tony Grice and I popped nice stainless units back in the original holes. Go climb it! May 29, 2009
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
 
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
 
I finally got on this thing. Full value. Four stars for one pitch.

We headed up White Maiden, heading left on the first pitch onto The Illegitimate. After a ways we went up a crack heading right off the Illegitimate which aims straight toward Zeno's. On an earlier attempt I tried to traverse in from the White Maiden ledge. It is a poorly protected downward traverse so your second will not be happy going that route.

I used a lot of gear, there is a really thin crack taking thin nuts and micro aliens at the start and the dihedral soaks up #3 C4 Camalots. I was super stoked to clip those new bolts Tony and I threw in. Luckily I did not have to test them. I felt really out there off that first bolt. May 31, 2010
Murf  
Zeno's saw a ton of traffic this weekend! I saw a party on it on Saturday late. The leader looked to having trouble on the tricky roof section, good thing you guys replaced those bolts. May 31, 2010
Tradiban  
 
Approached from Z Crack, intial thin crack of Zeno had little bushes growing in it, super annoying! I was pulling little branches to move up, maybe you can approach from higher up on illigitimate?

Anyway, I took two #4s and a #5 but you could probably get away with one #4 if you are willing to bump it up. This gets 11a in the new Gaines book, I would vote for 10+ and only for one move on the upper slab. Jul 17, 2016
J Kazu
Los Angeles, CA
5.11-
J Kazu   Los Angeles, CA
5.11-
Thank you Tony and Mschlocker for replacing the bolts. Small bushes were growing out of the initial 10a finger crack. I pulled on them to get through that section. Everything else about this pitch was great. Aug 30, 2016

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