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Routes in Fringe Walls

Bar Exam T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cactus Flower T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dunn's T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Neutron Dance T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Octopussy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scorpion Corner T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Soft Serve T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sting, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Warren's Left-Leaning Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Warren's Roof Crack T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Widow vs Mantis T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Worm Hole T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 340 total · 5/month
Shared By: jakobi on Aug 25, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description [Suggest Change]

P1-Start in a left facing corner with a short, awkward bombay section to get established in the crack. Goes from hands quickly to fists and then easy stacks, eventually becoming a moderate squeeze chimney for the remaining forty feet of the pitch. Tunnel behind a loose stack of blocks to gain the belay ledge or else carefully step across the outside to a comfortable two bolt anchor station.
P2-Climb up over the stack of blocks to the laser cut splitter, Bloom's guide describes climbing the left crack with pods which seems feasible except the last half of the crack pinches shut. The right crack is impeccable though and climbs a short section of fingers, stacks and thin hands to a good length of perfect hand crack with a very short section of wide hands just before the anchors.
Tops out the wall, rappel the route.

Location [Suggest Change]

Located near the center of Cactus Flower Buttress. Looking up from the road you will notice two splitters beginning off a ledge, the left splitter has three notable pods, the right splitter is perfect.

Protection [Suggest Change]

I used: 1x.75, 1x2, 1x3, 2x4 Camalots and would have liked to have 1x5, 1x6, and I'd maybe the blue Big Bro for the squeeze. I'd also recommend a long sling to protect the second at the traverse to the anchors. For the P2 I used 2x.4, 1x.5, 1x.75, 2x1, 3x2, 1x3 Camalots which felt adequate.

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