Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Douglas Scott, Charles Carr, and Loran Smith. October 1984
Page Views: 377 total · 23/month
Shared By: Edge on Sep 22, 2020
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

From a belay shelf located right of the juniper, launch straight up the left facing corner, which becomes right facing at half height.

Back story:  Following a two month trip to Yosemite in 1984, my friend Douglas Scott & I were reluctantly making our way back to New England when we decided to procrastinate in Indian Creek. We only saw one other group of climbers there in 4 days, and that happened to be my NH partner doing the same thing as us.  After spending a night under the boulder in the middle of Fringe of Death Canyon (I seem to remember a quite nice thin-tips lieback problem on the boulder?), we wandered up to this route.

Douglas led, with Charles and I following. We all agreed on mid 5.10, but never thought to name it; the name I have assigned it here is our last initials. We believed this to be an FA at the time mostly because of the amount of loose rock that was cleared in the process, and the fact that the rope left an unavoidable groove where the climb changed direction, which had not been evident before.  The base area also required a fair amount of 'tidying' to allow for any kind of rope management. 

This is being reported only now, some 36 years later, (guess I've been busy) because I just rediscovered these old crappy scans from slides. 

Location

From the large boulder in the middle of Fringe of Death Canyon, this climb was uphill to the left as you face into the canyon. Look for the large juniper tree. 

I believe this may be the climb listed as #13, (5.10+ **  70' SWA) on page 93 of Creek Freak in the Fringe of Death Canyon section, but that need to be confirmed, and should be obvious from the pictures. 

Protection

Thin to med cams.

Photos

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