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Warren's Left-Leaning Crack
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.4 from 7
votes
Routes in Fringe Walls
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A Means T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bar Exam T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Big Papa J T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bitch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Block Plan T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cactus Flower T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Carolyn’s Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dunn's T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Itch T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Manstruation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Mentor S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Neutron Dance T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Octopussy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sacred Simplicity T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Scorpion Corner T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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SCS T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sting, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Switch T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Warren's Left-Leaning Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Warren's Roof Crack T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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White Pattie T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Widow vs Mantis T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Worm Hole T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 890 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Sean Nelb on May 10, 2011 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: 2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
LIFTED 9/13/2022-
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public will be asked to avoid activities in areas that the BLM has identified as having high potential or are historically known to have raptor nesting activity. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. This list serves only as a guide and does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas for the protection of the nesting sites. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration (SITLA), who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Melissa Wardle or Jason Byrd with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
LIFTED 9/13/2022-
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public will be asked to avoid activities in areas that the BLM has identified as having high potential or are historically known to have raptor nesting activity. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. This list serves only as a guide and does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas for the protection of the nesting sites. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration (SITLA), who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Melissa Wardle or Jason Byrd with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Climb the fingers-to-hands crack through a roof to an intermediate anchor (stopping here keeps things at 5.10+). Continue another 30 ft up the slanting off-fingers crack with a small changing corner to the anchor.
Photos
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