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Routes in Fringe Walls

Bar Exam T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cactus Flower T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dunn's T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Neutron Dance T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Octopussy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scorpion Corner T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Soft Serve T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sting, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Warren's Left-Leaning Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Warren's Roof Crack T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Worm Hole T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Stuart Ruckman and Gordon Douglas, mid 80s
Page Views: 1,302 total · 11/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Oct 3, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

P1 - A short approach pitch up and right to the base of the splitter (5.7).

P2 - Nice steep splitter handcrack (5.10+).

Decent - (2) ropes are necessary

Location

A ways to the right of Cactus Flower.

Protection

Some smaller pieces, but the bulk of it is #2 & #3 Camalots

Photos

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Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
 
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
 
Lead on 2 ropes and drop 1... retrieved gear on P1 on the lower Dec 30, 2017
blue ribbon
Indian Creek, UT
  5.10
blue ribbon   Indian Creek, UT
  5.10
Modern anchors. Can be done in one 40m pitch with a little bit of creativity. Nov 24, 2016
Bill Lundeen
Lee Vining, CA
 
Bill Lundeen   Lee Vining, CA
 
Nuetron Dance indeed! Excellent route--even in the rain! Weird airy traverse at end of 5."7" first pitch. It's all about the 2nd pitch! Hands to hands to hands, finish on hands! Sep 30, 2016
Dana Prosser
Boulder
Dana Prosser   Boulder
Great route!! There are brand new shiny bolts at the top of the second pitch, and our 70m rope barely got us down on rappel. Rack: black diamond 1x 0.3, 1x 0.4, 1x 0.75, 3x 1, 5x 2, 6x 3, 1x 3.5, 1x 5. The #5 is nice to have for the first pitch which is placed before an airy traverse. This rack includes a #1,2,and 3 Camelot that my partner placed at the anchor on top of the first pitch. Bolder leaders could get away with less gear, but I am a wimp... Apr 11, 2016
I had more trouble with the first pitch. Awsome 2nd pitch! Mar 20, 2014
slim

  5.10+
slim    
  5.10+
excellent route, just a total blast. 80m gets you all the way down easily, not sure if a 70 would do it or not(?). Nov 26, 2012
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
110ft slightly over hanging handcrack...yes please! Nov 26, 2012
Princess Mia
Vail
  5.10+
Princess Mia   Vail
  5.10+
Another incredible two pitch route. The first pitch is very spivey for 5.7, with a wild hand/armbar bellyflop foot wedgy traverse. Two BD #1 needed for the belay. Pitch two is about as good as it gets. Many BD #1 and a few 2s and 3s.
The anchor is fine. Two good and solid bolts, yes leader hangers but you are not wipping off them, just rapping, and the chains are good. Plus there is a solid piton. Bring extra webbing to replace the old stuff on the piton. May 6, 2012
JPFox
SLC, UT
JPFox   SLC, UT
The bolts at the anchor are Sketch! Great route, Scary Rap Apr 24, 2010
Hi there - Stuart Ruckman and myself did the first ascent of "Neutron Dance" back in the mid 80's or so. I remember the second pitch as being very good - a great splitter/small corner ending on a nice little ledge. We chose the name because at the time authorities were considering creating a nuclear waste repository in the vicinity of Canyonlands National Park.

Best regards - Gordon Douglass Jul 16, 2009

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