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Routes in Fringe Walls

Bar Exam T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cactus Flower T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dunn's T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Neutron Dance T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Octopussy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scorpion Corner T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Soft Serve T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sting, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Warren's Left-Leaning Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Warren's Roof Crack T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Widow vs Mantis T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Worm Hole T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 188 total · 2/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Apr 18, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Octopus is route #15b (unknown? 140') in the new Indian Creek Guide, but its way taller than 140'. It starts by squeezing up a fun chimney with ample face holds that can be protected by a #6 Camalot and a slung chockstone. Once above the chockstone a #1 Camalot crack can be found inside the chimney which is the same splitter crack that leads to the anchors. Thin hands and some wide fingers will get you to a nice rest ledge at the bottom of the crux. Plug in a couple finger size pieces and layback up a steep left angling flake with a hard topout. Finish with a nice overhanging hand crack to the anchors.

Location

About 100 yards right of Neutron Dance. Look for a right facing corner with a chimney and a wavy splitter hand crack above that goes forever!

Protection

1 #6 Camalot, 3 or 4 each .5 through #2 Camalot. 1 or 2 #3 Friends for the top are nice. Two ropes are needed to rap back down. Anchor is bolts with webbing.

Photos

This route is called Octopussy. Nov 23, 2017
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
 
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
 
One of the best routes I've done for the fun factor...
Amazing variety Dec 30, 2017

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