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Routes in Sunshine Buttess (aka Wichita Wall)

"Unnamed Arete" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Can Do T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cerebellum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dirty Sanchez T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Free Fall T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gecko, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goofer's Roof T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jack Straw T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jam Crack Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kanarado Korner T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reflections T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scotch on the Rocks S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shannon's Bloody Leg V3-4 6A+
Split Decision S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wichita Skyline T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zig Zag T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 240 ft, 3 pitches
FA: R. Gale and D. Hurst
Page Views: 2,301 total, 35/month
Shared By: Rob Griz on Aug 14, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a great, easy, 3 pitch, pure trad line and a rare gem on these walls where gear is typically sparse, random or shady. Begin where the approach trail hits the wall and trend left into a shallow, right-facing corner. Follow the crack/slab as it arcs right to a 2-bolt anchor on a small ledge. Continue to follow the crack to a second, smaller belay ledge with another 2-bolt anchor. The final pitch runs straight up the featured face (through broken, roof-like rock) to a final 2-bolt anchor just below a large ledge. 3 single rope (60m) raps gets you back on the deck.

Location

This is the leftmost route on the East wall. Begin where the approach trail hits the wall and trend left into a shallow, right-facing corner.

Protection

A standard rack with cams to 3" and and a selection of medium to large stoppers.

Photos

Pretty fun route, a lot of options on the ascent. I spend a lot of time there because of this. You can do so many different variations that it keeps it interesting long after your first visit there. I am not advising people to do this, but it is a great spot for free solos. I have yet to find any good places to hike back down once you get to the top, so make a rope backpack and haul it with you while you're on your solo. BE CAREFUL!...there's lots of loose rock on Wichita, and if something looks suspect, give it the ol' slap and wiggle. Don't wrench on stuff without checking it out first. Overall, it is a great route that is not particularly difficult, but it is a great slab that will help you improve your slab maneuvers. Aug 19, 2013