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Routes in Sunshine Buttress (aka Wichita Wall)
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"Unnamed Arete" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Above All T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Can Do T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cerebellum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Dirty Sanchez T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Free Fall T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gecko, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Goofer's Roof T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jack Straw T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Jam Crack Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Kanarado Korner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Reflections T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Scotch on the Rocks S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shannon's Bloody Leg V3-4 6A+ |
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Split Decision S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Swinger's Convention T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wichita Skyline T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Zig Zag T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Rob Griz |
| Page Views: | 1,328 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Rob Griz on Aug 13, 2012 |
| Admins: | Joey Chicharrones, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
We all know where Jack Straw is from...and I know you'll be amazed with this classic, thin-edged, sport line. Begin this 2-pitch line on the left of Scotch on the Rocks by following the fixed line west, passing the dead tree and scrambling up the broken slab. This route is the left-most of the two bolted lines on a short, 30' wall. Climb past the 3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor left of the dead tree. Belay here or angle up right 40' on unprotected 5.5 slab to a higher belay where you will find a 2-bolt anchor on crack/ledge. This is the same belay stance for Kanarado Korner.
The classic second pitch ascends 6 bolts up a steep face through a daunting roof. Balancy face moves get you atop the upper slab and lead to a 2-bolt anchor right of the dead tree and belay alcove. Don't let Jack "shoot you down"! 2 single rope raps get you back down.
The classic second pitch ascends 6 bolts up a steep face through a daunting roof. Balancy face moves get you atop the upper slab and lead to a 2-bolt anchor right of the dead tree and belay alcove. Don't let Jack "shoot you down"! 2 single rope raps get you back down.
Location
This is left of Scotch on the Rocks . Follow the fixed line past the dead tree and head up the broken slab to the short, steep face with 2 bolted lines. Jack is the left route.
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