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Routes in Sunshine Buttess (aka Wichita Wall)

"Unnamed Arete" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Can Do T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cerebellum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dirty Sanchez T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Free Fall T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gecko, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goofer's Roof T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jack Straw T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jam Crack Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kanarado Korner T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reflections T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scotch on the Rocks S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shannon's Bloody Leg V3-4 6A+
Split Decision S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wichita Skyline T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zig Zag T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 80 total · 7/month
Shared By: Luke Clarke on Sep 4, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Start as for Jack Straw, but continue straight on the easy slab to an obvious, right-facing corner. Fun jamming and stemming lead to an intimidating looking roof that goes at 5.8. Once over the roof, find a good directional placement for micro cams in a horizontal crack slightly higher than a large dead tree on your right. Traverse 15 feet right to Jack Staw's anchors just right of the dead tree.

Location

This corner is left of the upper pitch of Jack Straw with an easier way through the roof.

Protection

I used two one-inch cams, a 0.75-inch, a 3-inch cam high in the roof, and a couple of micro cams for a directional above the roof.

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