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Routes in Sunshine Buttess (aka Wichita Wall)

"Unnamed Arete" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Can Do T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cerebellum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dirty Sanchez T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Free Fall T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gecko, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goofer's Roof T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jack Straw T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jam Crack Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kanarado Korner T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reflections T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scotch on the Rocks S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shannon's Bloody Leg V3-4 6A+
Split Decision S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wichita Skyline T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zig Zag T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 65 total · 7/month
Shared By: Luke Clarke on Sep 4, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description [Suggest Change]

Start as for Jack Straw, but continue straight on the easy slab to an obvious, right-facing corner. Fun jamming and stemming lead to an intimidating looking roof that goes at 5.8. Once over the roof, find a good directional placement for micro cams in a horizontal crack slightly higher than a large dead tree on your right. Traverse 15 feet right to Jack Staw's anchors just right of the dead tree.

Location [Suggest Change]

This corner is left of the upper pitch of Jack Straw with an easier way through the roof.

Protection [Suggest Change]

I used two one-inch cams, a 0.75-inch, a 3-inch cam high in the roof, and a couple of micro cams for a directional above the roof.

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