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Routes in Sunshine Buttress (aka Wichita Wall)
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"Unnamed Arete" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Above All T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Can Do T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cerebellum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Dirty Sanchez T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Free Fall T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gecko, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Goofer's Roof T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jack Straw T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Jam Crack Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Kanarado Korner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Reflections T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Scotch on the Rocks S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shannon's Bloody Leg V3-4 6A+ |
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Split Decision S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Swinger's Convention T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wichita Skyline T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Zig Zag T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | GB and Steven Sarns, October 11,1979, or M Hartley, solo |
| Page Views: | 296 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | George Bracksieck on Nov 5, 2022 |
| Admins: | Joey Chicharrones, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This route has been shown in all of the Summit County guidebooks going back to the first, written by Gruber and Astaldi. In 1979, long before any guidebooks existed, Steven and I did it exactly as now shown in the 2017 and 2022 editions of Karden’s guidebook. We saw no bolts anywhere on this rock.
Pitch 1: we climbed the low-angled, right-facing dihedral just left of what is now Scotch on the Rocks.
Pitch 2: from above the top of the dihedral, we traversed left along the top of a slab to a belay below a crack in a right-facing corner.
Pitch 3: we climbed the crack, which is also the continuation of the Jam Crack Route, continuing above the corner and finishing with a short overhanging slot. Btw, on October 7, 2022, Angelique Atlas led me up this pitch, after leading me up Jack Straw’s first pitch. I dislodged a bowling-ball-size chockstone that was my key hold for the big crux move over the top bulge. She avoided using the chockstone and avoided killing her belayer. This made the crux even harder for her! She belayed me up from the JS bolted anchor, from which we toproped pitch two of JS.
Pitch 4: in 1979, Steven and I did a short pitch diagonally left to the base of the overhanging, right-facing dihedral.
Pitch 5: Steven led this slightly overhanging crack (9+) to the top.
We walked off.
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