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Routes in Sunshine Buttess (aka Wichita Wall)

"Unnamed Arete" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Can Do T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cerebellum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dirty Sanchez T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Free Fall T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gecko, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goofer's Roof T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jack Straw T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jam Crack Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kanarado Korner T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reflections T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scotch on the Rocks S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shannon's Bloody Leg V3-4 6A+
Split Decision S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wichita Skyline T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zig Zag T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: ACB, Rob Griz
Page Views: 944 total · 13/month
Shared By: Rob Griz on Aug 27, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a mellow line that tackles an awkard roof, low on the East Wall. Starting a bit right of the bolted line of Split Decision, climb up right-trending crack/ledges to a looming, left-facing roof. The crack system through the root eats ear, so plug and chug through the roof and on to the easy slab above. Work a bit right and finish on a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.

Location

You will find this goofy line on the far side of the East Wall. Hike up the approach trail, turn right at the fork and follow it to the 'end'. The low roof will be obvious.

Protection

Single set of cams to 3", 2-bolt top anchor (shared with Dirty Sanchez).

Photos

The crack and roof take good gear, but the slabs above and below might feel a bit sparse. Jul 12, 2013
Sunshine11 Lovas
Silverthorne, CO
 
Sunshine11 Lovas   Silverthorne, CO
 
Had a wet summer and the route was pretty overgrown and dirty. The roof was still fun, and it does take good gear. Sep 22, 2014

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