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Routes in Sunshine Buttess (aka Wichita Wall)

"Unnamed Arete" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Can Do T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cerebellum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dirty Sanchez T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Free Fall T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gecko, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goofer's Roof T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jack Straw T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jam Crack Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kanarado Korner T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reflections T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scotch on the Rocks S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shannon's Bloody Leg V3-4 6A+
Split Decision S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wichita Skyline T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zig Zag T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 302 total · 5/month
Shared By: Rob Griz on Aug 15, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is an amazing, 2 pitch mixed line that begins with a steep, bolt protected face, into a ramp that leads to a 2nd steep bolted face that trends into an awesome, right-facing corner/crack, protected with excellent natural gear. The direct route begins up and left of Scotch on the Rocks on a 3-bolt line. It is just right of the direct start for Jack Straw. The route has great moves on a super-fun line, one of the best in the 10 Mile. P1: Climb the steep, awkward face passing 3 bolts 95.10) to a slab above and trend up and right on unprotected 5.5 slab to a 2-bolt anchor. P2: Climb the steep, thin bolted face (5.10) to the awesome right-facing corner to a 2-bolt anchor.

The climb begins up and left of Scotch on the Rocks and just right of Jack Straw. To access the 2nd pitch, you could also climb either Scotch on the Rocks or the first pitch of Jack Straw and belay in a large crack/ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. If accessing via Scotch, climb the 5.7 slab to the anchors and continue climbing, trending up and left, passing a small face/overhang to the belay stance. If accessing via Jack Straw, climb the 5.10 past 3 bolts to the slab above. Pass the 2-bolt anchor and trend up and right (50'), passing the dead tree, on unprotected slab (5.5) to the belay stance.

Location

A single 70m rope rap from the anchors will put you back on the belay ledge. A second rap will get you back to the deck. Be careful with both raps, it is possible to rap off the ends of your rope! You can use a 60m, rapping from the corner anchors to the anchors above Free Fall to the anchors on Scotch on the Rocks to the deck.

Per rob bauer: a 70 meter rope will BARELY get you back to the start of the pitch. Plan on 3 raps.

Protection

P1: 3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
P2: 2 bolts, Camalots #0.3 to 3 (possibly a double set of #1-3, depending on your comfort), and a 2-bolt anchor near the end of the corner.

Photos

JuliaMV
Christchurch, New Zealand
 
JuliaMV   Christchurch, New Zealand
 
Thanks for the tip, Mike! Was nervous about 5.10 trad, but the only 5.10 section is on the headwall, which is protected by 2 bolts. Plenty of gear options in the crack, which I'd agree is about 5.8. Nice climb. Jun 27, 2016
rob bauer
Golden, CO
 
rob bauer   Golden, CO
 
A 70 meter rope will BARELY get you back to the start of the pitch. Plan on 3 raps. Sep 24, 2015
Mike Bannister
  5.10-
Mike Bannister  
  5.10-
A single 60m will NOT get you down to the belay, at least mine didn't. I tried and had to crawl back up to the intermediate anchor 40' below the top anchor. Plan on 3 raps with one 60.

Great route. If you're not climbing 5.10 on gear, don't let the grade scare you off, the crack is around 5.8+. Jul 21, 2013