Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 845 total · 8/month
Shared By: Rob Griz on Aug 15, 2012
Admins: Joey Chicharrones, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-

Description

This is an amazing, 2 pitch mixed line that begins with a steep, bolt protected face, into a ramp that leads to a 2nd steep bolted face that trends into an awesome, right-facing corner/crack, protected with excellent natural gear. The direct route begins up and left of Scotch on the Rocks on a 3-bolt line. It is just right of the direct start for Jack Straw. The route has great moves on a super-fun line, one of the best in the 10 Mile. P1: Climb the steep, awkward face passing 3 bolts 95.10) to a slab above and trend up and right on unprotected 5.5 slab to a 2-bolt anchor. P2: Climb the steep, thin bolted face (5.10) to the awesome right-facing corner to a 2-bolt anchor.

The climb begins up and left of Scotch on the Rocks and just right of Jack Straw. To access the 2nd pitch, you could also climb either Scotch on the Rocks or the first pitch of Jack Straw and belay in a large crack/ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. If accessing via Scotch, climb the 5.7 slab to the anchors and continue climbing, trending up and left, passing a small face/overhang to the belay stance. If accessing via Jack Straw, climb the 5.10 past 3 bolts to the slab above. Pass the 2-bolt anchor and trend up and right (50'), passing the dead tree, on unprotected slab (5.5) to the belay stance.

Location

A single 70m rope rap from the anchors will put you back on the belay ledge. A second rap will get you back to the deck. Be careful with both raps, it is possible to rap off the ends of your rope! You can use a 60m, rapping from the corner anchors to the anchors above Free Fall to the anchors on Scotch on the Rocks to the deck.

Per rob bauer: a 70 meter rope will BARELY get you back to the start of the pitch. Plan on 3 raps.

Protection

P1: 3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
P2: 2 bolts, Camalots #0.3 to 3 (possibly a double set of #1-3, depending on your comfort), and a 2-bolt anchor near the end of the corner.

Photos