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Routes in Sunshine Buttess (aka Wichita Wall)

"Unnamed Arete" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Can Do T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cerebellum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dirty Sanchez T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Free Fall T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gecko, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goofer's Roof T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jack Straw T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jam Crack Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kanarado Korner T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reflections T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scotch on the Rocks S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shannon's Bloody Leg V3-4 6A+
Split Decision S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wichita Skyline T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zig Zag T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 120 ft
FA: Rob Griz
Page Views: 817 total · 12/month
Shared By: Rob Griz on Aug 14, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a great mixed line following steepening slab to a fine crack. You could continue up another pitch (25-30m) to the top through easy 5.6-7 trad climbing to a 2-bolt anchor atop Zig Zag. Climb on in honor of the "Gecko", you will be missed, catch you on the other side, buddy! Can Do is the 2nd pitch of this route that heads up through broken terrain to a 2-bolt anchor.

Location

This is the 2nd route from the left edge of the East Wall where the approach trail hits the wall. The first bolt is 20' up on the slab. A 2 bolt top anchor gets you down the first pitch. A 70m rope just makes it down this single pitch. If doing both pitches, you could rap the 3 anchors on Zig Zag with a 60m rope.

Protection

7 bolts, Camalots #0.3-1. It has a 2 bolt anchor at the end of the pitch. A 70m rope required. Bring a standard rack if doing the optional 2nd pitch to the top.

Photos

rob bauer
Golden, CO
 
rob bauer   Golden, CO
 
My 70m wouldn't reach either; we rap'd climbers left to a Zig Zag anchor, then down. Sep 24, 2015
Mike Bannister
  5.9-
Mike Bannister  
  5.9-
Good slab climbing with a little spice. Remember your small cams/nuts or it will be very spicy. Griz, I think your 70 is longer than mine. We had to use an intermediary anchor to get down. My rope did not quite hit the ground. Aug 21, 2013