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Routes in Sunshine Buttess (aka Wichita Wall)

"Unnamed Arete" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Can Do T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cerebellum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dirty Sanchez T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Free Fall T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gecko, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goofer's Roof T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jack Straw T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jam Crack Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kanarado Korner T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reflections T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scotch on the Rocks S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shannon's Bloody Leg V3-4 6A+
Split Decision S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wichita Skyline T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zig Zag T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: M. Hartley
Page Views: 804 total · 12/month
Shared By: Rob Griz on Aug 15, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is an awesome mixed line that runs up the center of the Central wall to a natural weakness through the roof above. The first pitch is an easy, 100', sport line that runs to an anchor below the roof. The second pitch passes an ancient set of anchors and ascends the amazing, thin crack through the roof above. A few bolts protect the slab above where a 2-bolt anchor on a ledge awaits. The roof has excellent moves with natural gear, a great line!

NOTE: If you are only leading the first pitch of this route, please respect others that wish to lead on through to the second pitch. Nothing is is more inconsiderate than a party toproping the first pitch of a multi-pitch route if others wish to lead the entire route.

Location

Begin the first pitch of Free Fall, just left of the iron ladder on the approach to the West Central walls. 2 2-bolt rap anchors gets you down with a single 60m rope.

Protection

1st pitch: 5.7 with 8 bolts to 2-bolt anchor/belay. 2nd pitch: 5.9+. A set of C3 cams and 4 bolts brings you to another 2-bolt anchor on a ledge.

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Annette Rebellato Martinet
Centennial, Colorado
 
Annette Rebellato Martinet   Centennial, Colorado
 
Loved P1 of this climb. Slab for DAYS, super well-protected after the funky start (if you're short!). Jun 27, 2016

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