Mountain Project Logo

Routes in South Fork

"ET" Extremely Tough Slab S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Altered States T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arete Sport Climb T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Center Route T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Expecting T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Fred Beckey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hall of Smears S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
High Noon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hueco 2nd Pitch S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hueco Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hueco Traverse S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I Stab Ourselves S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Last Rites T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pins and Needles S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pulp Friction S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sand Surfin' S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Self Abuse S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shotgun T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southern Comfort T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Spiderfinger T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tail Of The Cock T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tango T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Touch Me Fall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Xanadu T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3+
Yahweh T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bob and Kaydi Draney, Sebastian Luque 1994
Page Views: 1,053 total, 16/month
Shared By: Brian Aitken on Jun 9, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Four pitches of slab climbing, face and chimney to the top out.

Protection

There's a pin and a bolt but it's mostly runout on the slab until you hit the chimney where it eats up some big cams and passive gear.

Photos

Bear in mind this is from about 1995. The photo attachment reads..
The Detachable Block area is broken into two sections, the lower portion and the main wall. Approaches to the lower portion take between 10 and 20 minutes, whereas the approach to the main wall area takes about 30-45 minutes. Reach the lower portion by walking approx. 10 minutes along the main trail to where there's a 15' boulder, the trail veer right then left. About that point, a small side trail exits to the left and switchbacks up toward the Top Rope Block Area.
The Layered Bowl area and Expecting is reached by turning left and up from the Top Rope Block area. Walk over a small ridge and down into a dry stream bed. Climb out of the stream bed into an oak filled grotto. From there, step up into the layered bowl and move up past a 30 foot pine tree (50 now probably).
Expecting begins about 150 feet up and left of this pine tree.

Expecting 5.10a/A1 (clean)
pro: 1 bolt, 1 pin, Friends to #4, #1,2 tcu's, small to medium stoppers, lots of runners.
Pitch 1 - Begin in a small bowl to the right of a large cave. Move up and right past a small, short crack below a bush. Climb past the bush and up along a crack to a 15 foot pine tree. Belay. 5.6.
Pitch 2 - Continue up the main crack above the tree. Pass a pin and continue climbing till the crack peeters out. Face move up approx 15 feet and clip a bolt. Mantle up the small ledge and belay from small/medium stoppers or cams. 5.7+.
Pitch 3- climb straight up the crack to an alcove 5.10a/A1 (clean).
Pitch 4 - At the alcove move left to a larger crack and continue up another 30 feet to a flat platform. Belay.
Pitch 5-7 or so - Continue up mostly 3rd and 4th class ledges and gullies to near the base of the main wall. Walk up canyon and descend 2nd and 3rd class toward Top Rope Block area.
Note that any mention in the pdf/photo of bolts above 2nd pitch is not true.
There's a pdf added to the South Fork main page that contains an overview map of the whole canyon. This is area B on that overview map. Nov 9, 2013
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
What's the beta on this route? Location? Gear? Oct 28, 2013
This route is called Expecting.
The first two pitches were put up by Bob and Kaydi Draney in 1994 and go at about 5.7.
Kaydi was 4-5 months pregnant and got woosey at the end of the second pitch.
Bob pounded in the pin as part of the anchor to back off the route.

Bob and Sebastian Luque returned about two weeks later and did pitches 3-5 above, including placing the bolt. 3rd pitch was graded around 10a if memory serves, following a seam trending left on pretty blank slab with thin protection.
The 4th pitch starts in an alcove with a hard move into a nasty off-width. After 30-40 feet reach easier climbing. The remaining pitches are wandering, easier 5th class climbing. Oct 25, 2013
FA by Matt-from-Pennsylvania Barley in 2002 (solo?). From the comments below, I guess Matt did a repeat ascent in 2002. Jun 2, 2013