Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Dave Thomas & Antoinette Frates - May, 1996
Page Views: 5,610 total · 30/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Oct 20, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Access Issue: Road Work in Kolob Canyon Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Yet another slab climb. A brief blank section by the fourth bolt leads to a shallow hueco. Angle slightly left after the last bolt to the chains.

Protection

8 bolts to a chain anchor.

Location

Across from the dramatic, overhanging, tiger-striped wall that contains "Namaste" is a beautiful grey slab (the Marmot Slab). This area currently contains 6 lines. From left to right they are:

Unknown Project: Only two bolts thus far.

Extremely Tough Slab: 5.11d with a 5.13 extension (rumored).

Pins and Needles: 5.11a. - tan bolt hangers.

Pulp Friction: 5.10c. - about 75 feet right of Pins and Needles and 5 feet left of a left-facing flake.

Sand Surfin': 5.10b - also left of a left-facing flake. Currently a cracked hanger at bolt #2 and potentially very dangerous.

Self Abuse: 5.9 and a variation of Sand Surfin' that begins at it's third bolt and dodges off straight left to another line of bolts.

All of the climbs are generally well-protected slabs of varying difficulty proportional to the steepness of the wall. I recommend starting with Sand Surfin' (skip Self Abuse) and working your way left down the wall until you get shut down.

Photos

Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 

Description

Friction slab climbing with sloping handholds, followed by a short, fairly blank section at the fourth bolt. After the blank section is a shallow hueco contained in more featured rock.

Continue up the now lower-angled rock through the next few bolts. After the eighth bolt angle left a bit toward the chains.

Location

Marmot Slab is the gray, slabby sandstone on the north side of the canyon across from the dramatic, orange-and-black striped, overhanging wall that contains Namaste.

Pulp Friction is located about 5 feet left (downcanyon, west) of a left-facing flake. About 75 feet left of Pulp Friction is Pins and Needles, which has tan bolt hangers. Note that Sand Surfin' is also located immediately left of a left-facing flake — there is a small roof on the flake to the right of Sand Surfing and Pulp Friction is downcanyon from Sand Surfing. Nov 20, 2007
Assuming I was on the correct climb,a 70m rope was not enough to get back to ground. Note, the climb was ~40m with only 8 bolts, seemed a bit ran out. Oct 26, 2015
JoeyJa
Amber Lamps
 
JoeyJa   Amber Lamps
 
Well protected for a slab route, especially during the crux.
I wish the entire climb was like the blank section at bolt 4! Didn't have time to try pins and needles between climbs at Namaste, but this one was still good! Mar 21, 2016
alex carey
Los Angeles, CA
  5.10c
alex carey   Los Angeles, CA
  5.10c
70 meters was plenty of rope. There was a large gap from the last bolt to the anchor, but its 5.6 climbing at most, hardly call it runout. I was only able to see 7 bolts at the bottom and found the 8th while I was up there. Jun 27, 2017