Mountain Project Logo

Routes in South Fork

"ET" Extremely Tough Slab S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Altered States T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arete Sport Climb T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Center Route T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Expecting T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Fred Beckey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hall of Smears S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
High Noon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hueco 2nd Pitch S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hueco Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hueco Traverse S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I Stab Ourselves S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Last Rites T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pins and Needles S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pulp Friction S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sand Surfin' S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Self Abuse S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shotgun T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southern Comfort T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Spiderfinger T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tail Of The Cock T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tango T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Touch Me Fall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Xanadu T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3+
Yahweh T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Dave Thomas & Stuart Litjens - May, 1996
Page Views: 3,797 total · 21/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Oct 20, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Road Work in Kolob Canyon Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


Across from the dramatic, overhanging, tiger-striped wall that contains "Namaste" is a beautiful grey slab (the Marmot Slab). This area currently contains 6 lines. From left to right they are:

Unknown Project: Only two bolts thus far.

Extremely Tough Slab: 5.11d with a 5.13 extension (rumored).

Pins and Needles: 5.11a. - tan bolt hangers.

Pulp Friction: 5.10c. - about 75 feet right of Pins and Needles and 5 feet left of a left-facing flake.

Sand Surfin': 5.10b - also left of a left-facing flake. Currently a cracked hanger at bolt #2 and potentially very dangerous.

Self Abuse: 5.9 and a variation of Sand Surfin' that begins at it's third bolt and dodges off straight left to another line of bolts.

All of the climbs are generally well-protected slabs of varying difficulty proportional to the steepness of the wall. I recommend starting with Sand Surfin' (skip Self Abuse) and working your way left down the wall until you get shut down.


9 bolts to a two-bolt, vertically-oriented Fixe rap anchor.


Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
Stuart Green's Rock Climbing Utah lists this route at 120 feet. I estimated 105 to 110 feet when using the middle mark on a 70m rope. However, it looked like there might be enough left in the 70m to indicate that a 60m would work as well (but it'd be close).

The route is well-protected; I wasn't too worried about any falls and I'm not exactly a slab hardman. Nov 19, 2007
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  


Start up on some rippled, darker, reddish rock toward the first bolt, which is about 15 feet up. Things start getting a bit thinner; there exist mild depressions here and there, and a few tiny, ever-so-slightly lower-angled protrusions.

Getting to, clipping, and then getting past the fourth bolt is the crux, with nothing other than blank slab and plenty-o-smearing. At the fifth bolt you gratefully reach rock that is a bit more featured (including a shallow hueco or two) and you can relax just a bit. Continuing upward you'll find here and there thin, horizontal stripes of grayer rock that provide just a touch more friction.

Just before the last bolt and continuing through to the anchor there is another fairly blank section, which has the added benefit of thin, slippery patches of lichen to avoid. However, this blank section is slightly lower-angled than the crux.


Marmot Slab is the gray, slabby sandstone on the north side of the canyon across from the dramatic, orange-and-black striped, overhanging wall that contains Namaste.

Pins and Needles is located about 75 feet left (downcanyon, west) of a left-facing flake. Immediately to the left of the flake is Pulp Friction. The bolt hangers for Pins and Needles are tan colored, making the route fairly easy to identify. The first bolt is about 15 feet up the slab; the first part of the route ascends some reddish, rippled-looking rock. Nov 20, 2007
Perin, nice job and description. I've not yet climbed this area. How would you rate/describe the quality and consistency of the rock (and other nearby slab routes)? Sticky/sandy? Solid/friable, etc.? Nov 22, 2007
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
Thanks, Dave.

The rock is very solid; nothing is coming off. It is a bit sandy. About every other move I gingerly reached down and brushed off the soles of my shoes, and more than once I brushed "holds" where I was about to place a foot.

In fact, part of the "cruxiness" of the smoothest bit is that there isn't enough friction to be able to lift both a hand and a foot at the same time so as to brush a sole clean. Nov 22, 2007
Thanks. Great info and insight to the (often unspoken) difficulties of sandstone slabclimbing...sandiness, etc. I, too, am no "slab meister," and trusting my footwork through "sugary" spots is usually THE major mental crux for me! It sounds like this is a significant issue here. (Gulp...) Nov 28, 2007
the professor
the professor  
This is a very nice route. The rock (at least at the crux band) has a hard varnished surface with rough texture. The surface sand is not because the slab is decaying, rather the sand falls from dunes and ledges far above. Oct 29, 2014

More About Pins and Needles