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Routes in South Fork

"ET" Extremely Tough Slab S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Altered States T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arete Sport Climb T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Center Route T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Expecting T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Fred Beckey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hall of Smears S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
High Noon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hueco 2nd Pitch S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hueco Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hueco Traverse S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I Stab Ourselves S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Last Rites T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pins and Needles S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pulp Friction S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sand Surfin' S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Self Abuse S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shotgun T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southern Comfort T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Spiderfinger T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tail Of The Cock T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tango T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Touch Me Fall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Xanadu T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3+
Yahweh T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 883 total, 14/month
Shared By: J.T.R. on Nov 17, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Follow the arete to the top

Location

Between The Tail of the Cock and center route on the rooster pinnacle. 140ft to the ground.
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Protection

10 bolts, anchors at the top. You could also clip the first bolt of Tail of the Cock to make it 11 bolts.

Photos

There are 14 bolts on this route if you use the starting bolt to Tail of the Cock. Anchors are above Center Route and create a lot of drag if attempting to TR this route. Recommend belaying from the top and raping the route. Broke several holds off this and there are missing holds on the slab creating a very difficult section. Jul 2, 2014
Stevie Nacho   Utah
This many routes concentrated at the entrance to the South Fork will only damage climber/hiker/park relations. It would be a good idea for climbers that want to climb new routes to start hiking into other areas of Kolob and away from heavily used trails. I'm guilty as the next guy for climbing close to trails, but adding routes in these areas will anger the wrong people. When I was in Kolob in the late 90's, the rangers were already really mad about the chalk and overusage at Namaste Wall. I am excited to see that people are liking this area, just a little scared that a few one pitch routes could ban bolts thus preventing some great big adventures from being had in other parts and canyons.


tda Aug 26, 2013