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Routes in South Fork

"ET" Extremely Tough Slab S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Altered States T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arete Sport Climb T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Center Route T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Expecting T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Fred Beckey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hall of Smears S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
High Noon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hueco 2nd Pitch S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hueco Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hueco Traverse S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I Stab Ourselves S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Last Rites T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pins and Needles S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pulp Friction S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sand Surfin' S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Self Abuse S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shotgun T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southern Comfort T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Spiderfinger T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tail Of The Cock T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tango T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Touch Me Fall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Xanadu T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3+
Yahweh T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Ryan Kane, March 2007
Page Views: 1,821 total, 14/month
Shared By: Kaner on Apr 22, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Scramble up easy 4th class and belay from atop this ledge. Ascend the crack, placing 1-3 inch cams in sketchy sandstone. Beware, the roof overhead is unstable bombs, waiting to drop. Move right around this, into a solid crack and rest on a huge ledge. Keep moving up, placing gear anytime solid rock permits. The top move is the crux. Move to the opening to the left and grovel on slopers until you can top out.

Location

Approach: Leave the parking lot and walk down the road 200 feet. Scratch and crawl your way up a land slide to reach the base of the rock.

To get down, walk off back to the parking lot.

Protection

Standard rack. I belayed from above using slung rock and roots as anchors.
Kaner
Eagle
 
Kaner   Eagle
 
I am claiming this as my own. It will probably never be repeated but it's my first FA. Changing name to match our favorite SB'07 beer activity. Dec 10, 2007
Kaner
Eagle
 
Kaner   Eagle
 
As you can see in the photos, this route is right along the road. I assume someone has climbed it before because when it was good, it was good and its so close with so many great climbers in the area.
However, I am claiming FA because 1) I'm selfish, 2) the approach easiest approach was a slippery slope with no other tracks, and 3) there were a lot of loose rocks/holds on this route.

Anybody recognize this rock? Apr 22, 2007