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Routes in South Fork

"ET" Extremely Tough Slab S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Altered States T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arete Sport Climb T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Center Route T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Expecting T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Fred Beckey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hall of Smears S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
High Noon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hueco 2nd Pitch S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hueco Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hueco Traverse S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I Stab Ourselves S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Last Rites T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pins and Needles S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pulp Friction S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sand Surfin' S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Self Abuse S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shotgun T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southern Comfort T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Spiderfinger T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tail Of The Cock T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tango T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Touch Me Fall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Xanadu T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3+
Yahweh T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: FFA Greg Barber, Dave Thomas, 1988
Page Views: 8,804 total · 60/month
Shared By: Chirp on Feb 10, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


After passing above the old debris dam and flood plain and hiking up canyon just about 200' west of Namaste on the South wall. This route is just left (East)of a huge left facing arch.
A bouldery start to a left trending flake (2 bolts) gets one to an obvious arching crack. Traverse into the crack and it goes from fingers to hands in about 45 to the belay chains.

When I first climbed this on aid in 1987 I found an old 2" angle lying in the dirt in a pod at the current rap anchor. I would LOVE to know who did the FA and when. There are faint bathook scars below the crack if you look carefully.


2 draws and a small rack of cams from 1/2" to 2"
madskates   slc
Beautiful Line, i found the crux to me the last few move right before you hit the anchor. Must do if your in the canyon and trying to get on a nice clean crack! Hard to put a grade on something like this since its unique climbing. 6b+ sounds around the ball park however it could be much easier or harder for some depending on the finger size. Dec 6, 2014
Jesse Kenyon
Salt Lake City, UT
Jesse Kenyon   Salt Lake City, UT
Super fun! I personally found it a bit spooky due to the loose sand everywhere and that I didn't have all the gear I wanted. In addition to the protection recommended, I would have liked a 0.3 and two 0.4's. You could definitely place some nuts at the beginning of the crack too if thats your thing.

It's a gorgeous hike into this canyon! Oct 13, 2014
the professor
the professor  
Transitioning and starting the crack favors long limbs but slender fingers. Tougher for those with sausage fingers! Jun 2, 2013
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Fun route. We decided a mantle on a slopey 1 inch ledge was in order to access the crack. Maybe there is a better way. Then there is a ledge above the finger crack section for your hands that helps ease the pain from the crack, followed by a no hands rest on a ledge about 3/4 of the way up, keeping this at 10+, though I felt this was way harder than any of the sport routes up in the Namaste area, but I prefer jugs to thin cracks with no feet. Don't bring the #2 or #1 camalot, they only go in a few spots where you want your hands to be. Bring an extra .75 instead. Oct 3, 2011
This is a really different style of climbing. Imagine climbing a laser cut finger crack, angling up and left at a 45 degree angle, with the entire wall leaning in to provide perfect friction for the feet. There are a few tricky sequences to figure out, but overall, it offers some of the best climbing in the area. I took a single set of BD cams from .4 to 2, along with a red and yellow C3. I placed every piece. Transitioning into the crack is a little tricky, placing pro is trickier. Jun 26, 2009
Steamboat Springs, CO
Teleman   Steamboat Springs, CO
Glad to see someone identify this route. Climbed it a couple of years ago not knowing for sure what it was and definitely thought it was on the up-side of 10. Fun boulder start and tricky transition to thin crack. It was clear that this is a rarely done climb. Once you are in the crack you are smearing on fairly featureless sandstone that has been further challenged by a very thin layer of lichen. Route is worth doing just to be in the canyon.
Would agree on gear recommendations. Apr 7, 2006

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