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Routes in Babylon Crag

All American Arete S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
All American Hand Crack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Babylon T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Box Tops T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Far East T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
In A Strange Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left for Dead T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PFM. Pure f $%^&* magic. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Proof of Purchase T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 379 total · 5/month
Shared By: Colonel Mustard on May 31, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

A left facing hand crack formed from a slightly separated block marks the lower half of the route. Beginning with a wide hands roof with great feet, curve around the roof up the hand crack until gaining the top of the block. From here a bit of unprotected face climbing leads to protection and broken cracks to the anchors.

Location

On the South face of the formation, the start is just under the golden face of a very large block.

Protection

Medium cams from .5" to 3", with perhaps a finger piece thrown in to protect after the unprotected face portion. Two bolt anchor, no chains or rap rings. I walked off into the gulley towards climber's left.

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Patrick Mulligan
Reno, NV
 
Patrick Mulligan   Reno, NV
 
Really easy for 5.9, especially considering that AAHC is 10a. Added rings to bolts.

A year later and those rings (3/8" links and heavy duty rappel rings) were taken and replaced by 1/4" plated home depot junk. We rapped from them, but they suck. Jun 15, 2012
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
 
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
 
Unfortunately, the rap situation is still at Patrick explains it... Wished I had hardware on me to fix it up... Next time. We descended into the gully that houses All American Hand Crack, which is a bit dicey in one spot, but totally doable. Once down you'll be staring right at AAHC, which we immediately hopped on. Aug 15, 2014

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