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Routes in The Babylon Crag

PFM. Pure f $%^&* magic. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
All American Arete S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
All American Hand Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Babylon T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Box Tops T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Corner left of All American Hand Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Far East T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left for Dead T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Proof of Purchase T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Patrick Mulligan
Page Views: 563 total, 13/month
Shared By: Patrick Mulligan on May 12, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details

Description

This route climbs the bolted face (steep slab) 10 feet to the left of proof of purchase. It is thin, technical, and very sustained. Start about 10 feet to the left of the corner and surmount the small 4" ledge then climb the face past the first bolt (recommended stick clip). Move left on the least steep part of the slab through easy climbing to clip the 2nd bolt(optional gear here recommended). Now move through the line of 7 bolts to the top first veering slightly left then right then left. You are climbing on the only usable holds (for me anyway) on the face. Thankfully there are some good stances from which you can rest.

I've seen a couple of folks get suckered into some larger holds about 2.5-4' left of the bolt line at and above the 2nd bolt. These holds are very loose and some large Platter size plates have pulled off when folks have veered too far into those holds. The shape of the bottom of the wall makes any rockfall head straight for the belayer. The holds within roughly 2' of the bolt line are very solid and all the loose rock has been cleaned.

Location

left of Proof of Purchase.

Protection

8 bolts and optional medium sized nut / tcu. There are two other opportunities for gear, but the cracks in which you'd be placing gear are somewhat loose or dirty.

Photos

If you left a biner on the 4th bolt, I grabbed it yesterday. I'm happy to give it back, but didn't want to leave it there. Let me know. BTW, the climbing above that bolt is a couple of letter grades easier than the climbing to get there, although the distance between the bolts becomes greater. Oct 20, 2014
Cool! Always thought someone would/should put a route up the middle of that slab, to the left of Proof of Purchase. I'm sure it will be a fun slab route, to add to the old 5.9 route there. May 13, 2014