All Locations > California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Donner/Truckee > Freeway Crags > The Babylon Crag
Avg: 4 from 2 votes
Routes in The Babylon Crag
|PFM. Pure f $%^&* magic. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|All American Arete S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|All American Hand Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Babylon T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Box Tops T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Corner left of All American Hand Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Far East T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Left for Dead T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Proof of Purchase T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 110 ft|
|Page Views:||563 total, 13/month|
|Shared By:||Patrick Mulligan on May 12, 2014|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Access Notes Details
CRAGS and the Access Fund are beginning new projects to help improve access to Donner Summit. You can communicate access issues directly at CRAGS’ Donner Summit page norcalcrags.org/crags/donner/. In 2014, the Truckee Donner Land Trust and the Access Fund jointly launched the Save Donner Climbing campaign. The following year, it purchased formerly private land for public conservation and access, which includes the Black Wall and other nearby cliffs.
DescriptionThis route climbs the bolted face (steep slab) 10 feet to the left of proof of purchase. It is thin, technical, and very sustained. Start about 10 feet to the left of the corner and surmount the small 4" ledge then climb the face past the first bolt (recommended stick clip). Move left on the least steep part of the slab through easy climbing to clip the 2nd bolt(optional gear here recommended). Now move through the line of 7 bolts to the top first veering slightly left then right then left. You are climbing on the only usable holds (for me anyway) on the face. Thankfully there are some good stances from which you can rest.
I've seen a couple of folks get suckered into some larger holds about 2.5-4' left of the bolt line at and above the 2nd bolt. These holds are very loose and some large Platter size plates have pulled off when folks have veered too far into those holds. The shape of the bottom of the wall makes any rockfall head straight for the belayer. The holds within roughly 2' of the bolt line are very solid and all the loose rock has been cleaned.